Eating fuel pumps

[David_H]

I would say that I have more than 3000 miles on my pump. How are you picking up fuel from the tank?
It was my daily driver until mid this year when I pulled out the engine to seal up some oil leaks.

When I replaced the pump last night I tried to start the car and the old pump after I tapped on it made a crazy noise then started to work for a little bit then it locked again. I just ran it out of the car and it runs again I hope they don't call me after I send it in and say hey it checks ok....

[TurboNova]

I would put a filter before the pump for sure. The closer to the top of the tank the pump is the easier time it will have sucking fuel out of the pickup. You would think to put the pump low on the tank but that just makes a feed line harder to fill than having it up top. With a tank that is sumped you would mount the pump low near the pickup. My setup is very similar to yours but I mounted the pump up on the pass frame rail with a fuel filter between the pump and tank.

[TAMELESS79]

David H,
Just wanted to chime in here, but if you don't want to wait for a tank to be made ( or the expense! ) there is an easier way to make a more effective gravity feed. You have your pump level with the bottom of the tank but your feed is above....like Turbo Nova was suggesting about going up then coming down. You can have a machine shop / hot rod shop weld in a bung in the bottom of tank, and add a 90 degree screw in fitting so that its adjustable by tightening to one side or the other... into the bottom of your tank which should run you between $50-$75 to have done. This makes a stronger gravity feed with less likelihood of sucking in any air and causing pre-mature failure to your pump. Cleaning the tank of the gasoline is of the biggest concern if you go this route. You can do this yourself with a couple bottles of degreaser, and followed up by water...should do the trick.

[turbodon]

I might be at a miss-understanding here.

The original post was on Aeromotive (Black 1000hp capable pump) not the small Bosch (gear rotor type) 500hp pump.

They are 2 different animals in design and performance. The gear type pumps hold up better under dry conditions than the Aeromotive.

So pictures are now talking about the smaller pump not the large Aeromotive.

[David_H]

I might be at a miss-understanding here.

The original post was on Aeromotive (Black 1000hp capable pump) not the small Bosch (gear rotor type) 500hp pump.

They are 2 different animals in design and performance. The gear type pumps hold up better under dry conditions than the Aeromotive.

So pictures are now talking about the smaller pump not the large Aeromotive.

Thats my fault I hyjacked this thread As it seemed Pete figured out what he was going to do.....

[David_H]

I would put a filter before the pump for sure. The closer to the top of the tank the pump is the easier time it will have sucking fuel out of the pickup. You would think to put the pump low on the tank but that just makes a feed line harder to fill than having it up top. With a tank that is sumped you would mount the pump low near the pickup. My setup is very similar to yours but I mounted the pump up on the pass frame rail with a fuel filter between the pump and tank.

Makes sense I will install a pre filter and move it up.... But I would really really like your thoughts on that tanks inc. sump kit let me know what you think here is the link.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...prod/prd84.htm
instrctions.http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa..._ID=6/art6.htm

David H,
Just wanted to chime in here, but if you don't want to wait for a tank to be made ( or the expense! ) there is an easier way to make a more effective gravity feed. You have your pump level with the bottom of the tank but your feed is above....like Turbo Nova was suggesting about going up then coming down. You can have a machine shop / hot rod shop weld in a bung in the bottom of tank, and add a 90 degree screw in fitting so that its adjustable by tightening to one side or the other... into the bottom of your tank which should run you between $50-$75 to have done. This makes a stronger gravity feed with less likelihood of sucking in any air and causing pre-mature failure to your pump. Cleaning the tank of the gasoline is of the biggest concern if you go this route. You can do this yourself with a couple bottles of degreaser, and followed up by water...should do the trick.

The only problem I see with your idea is you would always need to keep a lot of fuel in the car otherwise sloshing would cause a run dry I would think more then the stock pick up....

[turbodon]

It all depends on your intended use. Road racing? No Spirited driving in mountains? Only if you have more than 1/4" of fuel.

You have to get fuel into the rectangle container. There is a small hole in the end. If fuel is not covering the hole the fuel in the rectangle gets used up faster than it can fill from fuel sloshing around it.

Fuel Safe sells a plastic rectangle bucket with check valve and built in pump. If you get down close to 1/4 tank of fuel these do not work either. ATL sells one as well.

It is some what better than a flat tank and pickup.

Do a search on surge pots and see what you find. Most that you will find are OEM EFI cars that are raced. Why did they build serge pots? To keep fuel to the engine.

A carb has fuel bowls (mini surge pots)..

[TAMELESS79]

David H,

No, actually that is the reason behind putting the bung at the bottom of the tank. I actually had this done, and I have my pump mounted a hair lower than the tank similar to your set up. I am using the bung and the 90 degree fitting as my feed. Which means if feed is almost at the bottom of the tank you would be safe in the event you run a little low on fuel. On top of that fuel is being pulled downward from the jump rather than going up than coming down. You don't have to do this, and not offended if you don't....just offering a cheaper alternative than buying a sump setup, which I too believe is the best alternative. I also noticed you were a at a bit of a time constraint.

[David_H]

It all depends on your intended use. Road racing? No Spirited driving in mountains? Only if you have more than 1/4" of fuel.

You have to get fuel into the rectangle container. There is a small hole in the end. If fuel is not covering the hole the fuel in the rectangle gets used up faster than it can fill from fuel sloshing around it.

Fuel Safe sells a plastic rectangle bucket with check valve and built in pump. If you get down close to 1/4 tank of fuel these do not work either. ATL sells one as well.

It is some what better than a flat tank and pickup.

Do a search on surge pots and see what you find. Most that you will find are OEM EFI cars that are raced. Why did they build serge pots? To keep fuel to the engine.

A carb has fuel bowls (mini surge pots)..

I'm no road racer. I just want to drive my car with out burning up pumps.....

David H,

No, actually that is the reason behind putting the bung at the bottom of the tank. I actually had this done, and I have my pump mounted a hair lower than the tank similar to your set up. I am using the bung and the 90 degree fitting as my feed. Which means if feed is almost at the bottom of the tank you would be safe in the event you run a little low on fuel. On top of that fuel is being pulled downward from the jump rather than going up than coming down. You don't have to do this, and not offended if you don't....just offering a cheaper alternative than buying a sump setup, which I too believe is the best alternative. I also noticed you were a at a bit of a time constraint.

I've decided to run it the way it is until after I get back from my trip I will take a extra pump with me. But from what I have read about the pump in the kit it should work fine as long as it NEVER runs dry..... So I think if I keep at least a half tank of fuel at all times I will be good. I am really leaning towards that Tanks inc insert I could even cut out the bottom of the stock tank and sump it then put the pan in the sump. The only problem is it will have to be on the left or right side of the tank cause the stock sending unit is in the middle....

[69sixpackbee]

Just some fuel for thought..good pun, eh?
Anyway,
on my '72 Chevy pickup I have dual tanks and I have never had a problem....ever. My pump is located on the frame rail on the passenger side. I am utilizing an '84-'89 Ford dual-function reservoir and selector valve that is found on many trucks and vans of that era. This was an install left over from my Megasquirt days. I am feeding the system solely with this setup and I have run both tanks down to zero gallons without recourse. The DA reservoir has enough of a capacity to keep the pump happy if I get some periods of sucking air as it will never lose it's prime. These were originally designed to be fed with a low-pressure sump pump and then the HP pump is located downstream from this unit. The atmospheric pressure differential with just the HP pump pulling through the system is more than enough to actuate the diaphragm and shuttle the internal valving for the tank switching. You guys that don't want to go through the trouble of feeding a swirl pot and the extraneous plumbing associated with it, this might be a viable option. I am using a dual-action because I have two tanks but the single-action reservoirs of the same era were also utilized for the single tank folks.

Another thing to consider, with some very simple modification, an external spin-on fuel filter unit can be used for a swirl pot. These can be fed with the existing engine-driven fuel pump and then the HP pump can pull from that to feed the EZ-EFI. I like this scenario because if I am stranded I can slap the carb back on, re-route one small length of hose and now my engine will keep running with the carbie and I am not stranded. I keep a carb in the toolbox just for this purpose...ask me how I know
Good luck!

Bud