CPG Nation Forum - TCI Product Tech http://www.cpgnation.com/forum en Sun, 01 Aug 2010 08:17:16 GMT vBulletin 1 http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/images/ca_serenity_red/misc/rss.jpg CPG Nation Forum - TCI Product Tech http://www.cpgnation.com/forum TCI® Top 10 FAQ http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/tci-top-10-faq-3939-new-post.html Wed, 19 May 2010 21:43:49 GMT This FAQ contains the most frequently asked questions about TCI® products. If don't see your question here, please call TCI® directly at 877-776-9824, or visit the TCI® Tech Help.


1. Can you explain incorrect torque converter selection problems?

As owners add engine power, they often install a looser torque converter (higher stall speed), overshooting the power range. A tighter converter will provide more bottom end power. As a guideline, once you crest the 600 lb-ft range, you need to install a torque converter with a billet front cover. Over 800 lb-ft, you need to have not only the billet front cover, but also add in a multi-disc clutch system and steel stator. Over 1400 lb-ft, a custom converter is in order.


2. What is the most common installation error?

Torque converter not engaged in pump drive.

Despite how it may be called out in the instruction sheet, the most common problem causing transmission failure is not engaging the torque converter on the input shaft. If the torque converter is not fully engaged, the pump will burn out, causing transmission destruction. More often than not, the converter appears to be in place, but the final press to full contact is not made. The converter needs to be spun on the shaft and turned until it reaches correct placement. How will you know? The transmission housing will bolt up easily to the back of the engine. If the transmission requires “pulling into place” by drawing on bolts placed in the bell housing to make it fit, the converter is probably not in the right place. Keep turning the converter and pressing it on the shaft. When it finally hits home you’ll hear that pleasing click of completion.


3. What do I need to know when calling the tech line for assistance?

There are a number of important specs that are required to ensure the tech line folks can help you select the right parts for your application. It’s a short list but an important one:
  • Engine cubic inch
  • Weight of vehicle
  • Rear end gearing
  • Tire height of drive wheels
  • Cam specs (critical for torque converter selection)
  • Induction system type (carburetor or fuel injection)
  • Any power adders and estimated power increase
  • Ultimate usage of vehicle (race, street, towing, etc.)


4. Explain lock up vs. non-lock up transmission – which is right for my street driven car?

A non-lock up converter always has some slippage in the system. This is a common condition in racecars with high stall speed converters, as it allows the power to be delivered to the racetrack in a usable traction-control mode style. Lock up transmissions electronically lock the turbine to the inside cover, giving a solid connection – no slippage. In this case, the turbine is turning at the same rate as the impeller.

As a rule, the tech line folks never recommend non-lock transmissions up for street applications, as non-lock up converters are inefficient for fuel mileage and street performance. Full lock up converters also create less heat and are better for cruising around town.


5. Electronic vs. non-electronic transmissions – which are better for me?

It’s a matter of whether you like to be in control of your transmission’s every feature, or not. Simply stated, a traditional non-electronic transmission, such as the GM Turbo 400, will certainly do the job. These transmissions operated through a combination of mechanical parts that would, more often than not, get you close to what you wanted in terms of performance and shifting.

Today’s electronic transmissions such as the 4L80E are plenty strong and will handle most anything you can dish out – plus offer an overdrive gear set for increased fuel mileage. Further more, they also offer total control of every feature, including both wide-open throttle and part-throttle shifting points. Those are features you won’t be able to dial in with old school transmissions. They take more time and energy to set up and require the use of some computer system. But if you have the ability to surf the internet with your computer, you have the ability to program one of today’s new electronic transmissions. When combined with our TCI® TCU™ (Transmission Control Unit), it is easy to not only program the transmission, but make further alterations later.


6. Do I need a cooler for my transmission?

In a word, yes. And, make it the biggest transmission oil cooler you can properly install on your vehicle. It should be mounted out of harm’s way, and in an area that has free flowing cool air. Being close to radiator hoses and headers is a big “no no.” This can be especially tough with street rods, but should be considered when designing and building these vehicles.


7. The Big Stall – how do I find my torque converter stall speed?

This is easy, but often confused. “Foot Stall Speed” is generally an incorrect figure. Placing the transmission in drive while holding the brakes on and noting the engine rpm before the vehicle begins to move is often a better test of brake condition than stall speed. The real number you need is “flash stall” and here is how to get it.

While driving in high gear (with the overdrive switched off if you have one), in a safe area free of traffic and obstructions, quickly depress the throttle. Note the highest rpm shown by the tachometer before the vehicle begins to accelerate. This is your flash stall speed and the number you need when talking to your tech line rep. It’s that simple.


8. Why can’t I run an 8-inch torque converter in my street car?

Street is not race. There is a difference. The 8-inch racing converters may generate great performance, but they also have high stall speeds, which equate to greater slippage and heat build up. Generally speaking, the higher the performance of your engine and the hotter the camshaft, the looser the converter (meaning higher stall speed). However, there is a limit, and racing converters in street applications is something to avoid.


9. My transmission comes with an assortment of rings that allow me to adjust by speedometer – which one is right for me?

Start by counting the number of drive teeth on the transmission gear you are currently using. If you have your rear end gearing ratio and the height of the driving tires in inches, contact the TCI® Help Line (888-776-9824) and we can help you select the right ring for your application. Or, you can use our online calculator.


10. When should I use a clutchless automatic transmission?

First off, it is not a matter of cost, as the two transmissions have virtually the same cost. Clutchless transmissions are great for circle track competition. They are simpler than transmissions with clutches, requiring fewer lines running through the cockpit and easier installation. Clutchless transmissions use bleed offs to get you going and are a direct lock up system, which does not allow for clutch slippage – and the benefits to efficiency therein. Clutchless transmissions deliver quicker throttle response and immediate application of power making them a good choice if your class of racing allows for this option. ]]> This FAQ contains the most frequently asked questions about TCI® products. If don't see your question here, please call TCI® directly at 877-776-9824, or visit the TCI® Tech Help.





1. Can you explain incorrect torque converter selection problems?



As owners add engine power, they often install a looser torque converter (higher stall speed), overshooting the power range. A tighter converter will provide more bottom end power. As a guideline, once you crest the 600 lb-ft range, you need to install a torque converter with a billet front cover. Over 800 lb-ft, you need to have not only the billet front cover, but also add in a multi-disc clutch system and steel stator. Over 1400 lb-ft, a custom converter is in order.





2. What is the most common installation error?



Torque converter not engaged in pump drive.



Despite how it may be called out in the instruction sheet, the most common problem causing transmission failure is not engaging the torque converter on the input shaft. If the torque converter is not fully engaged, the pump will burn out, causing transmission destruction. More often than not, the converter appears to be in place, but the final press to full contact is not made. The converter needs to be spun on the shaft and turned until it reaches correct placement. How will you know? The transmission housing will bolt up easily to the back of the engine. If the transmission requires “pulling into place” by drawing on bolts placed in the bell housing to make it fit, the converter is probably not in the right place. Keep turning the converter and pressing it on the shaft. When it finally hits home you’ll hear that pleasing click of completion.





3. What do I need to know when calling the tech line for assistance?



There are a number of important specs that are required to ensure the tech line folks can help you select the right parts for your application. It’s a short list but an important one:
  • Engine cubic inch

  • Weight of vehicle

  • Rear end gearing

  • Tire height of drive wheels

  • Cam specs (critical for torque converter selection)

  • Induction system type (carburetor or fuel injection)

  • Any power adders and estimated power increase

  • Ultimate usage of vehicle (race, street, towing, etc.)





4. Explain lock up vs. non-lock up transmission – which is right for my street driven car?



A non-lock up converter always has some slippage in the system. This is a common condition in racecars with high stall speed converters, as it allows the power to be delivered to the racetrack in a usable traction-control mode style. Lock up transmissions electronically lock the turbine to the inside cover, giving a solid connection – no slippage. In this case, the turbine is turning at the same rate as the impeller.



As a rule, the tech line folks never recommend non-lock transmissions up for street applications, as non-lock up converters are inefficient for fuel mileage and street performance. Full lock up converters also create less heat and are better for cruising around town.





5. Electronic vs. non-electronic transmissions – which are better for me?



It’s a matter of whether you like to be in control of your transmission’s every feature, or not. Simply stated, a traditional non-electronic transmission, such as the GM Turbo 400, will certainly do the job. These transmissions operated through a combination of mechanical parts that would, more often than not, get you close to what you wanted in terms of performance and shifting.



Today’s electronic transmissions such as the 4L80E are plenty strong and will handle most anything you can dish out – plus offer an overdrive gear set for increased fuel mileage. Further more, they also offer total control of every feature, including both wide-open throttle and part-throttle shifting points. Those are features you won’t be able to dial in with old school transmissions. They take more time and energy to set up and require the use of some computer system. But if you have the ability to surf the internet with your computer, you have the ability to program one of today’s new electronic transmissions. When combined with our TCI® TCU™ (Transmission Control Unit), it is easy to not only program the transmission, but make further alterations later.





6. Do I need a cooler for my transmission?



In a word, yes. And, make it the biggest transmission oil cooler you can properly install on your vehicle. It should be mounted out of harm’s way, and in an area that has free flowing cool air. Being close to radiator hoses and headers is a big “no no.” This can be especially tough with street rods, but should be considered when designing and building these vehicles.





7. The Big Stall – how do I find my torque converter stall speed?



This is easy, but often confused. “Foot Stall Speed” is generally an incorrect figure. Placing the transmission in drive while holding the brakes on and noting the engine rpm before the vehicle begins to move is often a better test of brake condition than stall speed. The real number you need is “flash stall” and here is how to get it.



While driving in high gear (with the overdrive switched off if you have one), in a safe area free of traffic and obstructions, quickly depress the throttle. Note the highest rpm shown by the tachometer before the vehicle begins to accelerate. This is your flash stall speed and the number you need when talking to your tech line rep. It’s that simple.





8. Why can’t I run an 8-inch torque converter in my street car?



Street is not race. There is a difference. The 8-inch racing converters may generate great performance, but they also have high stall speeds, which equate to greater slippage and heat build up. Generally speaking, the higher the performance of your engine and the hotter the camshaft, the looser the converter (meaning higher stall speed). However, there is a limit, and racing converters in street applications is something to avoid.





9. My transmission comes with an assortment of rings that allow me to adjust by speedometer – which one is right for me?



Start by counting the number of drive teeth on the transmission gear you are currently using. If you have your rear end gearing ratio and the height of the driving tires in inches, contact the TCI® Help Line (888-776-9824) and we can help you select the right ring for your application. Or, you can use our online calculator.





10. When should I use a clutchless automatic transmission?



First off, it is not a matter of cost, as the two transmissions have virtually the same cost. Clutchless transmissions are great for circle track competition. They are simpler than transmissions with clutches, requiring fewer lines running through the cockpit and easier installation. Clutchless transmissions use bleed offs to get you going and are a direct lock up system, which does not allow for clutch slippage – and the benefits to efficiency therein. Clutchless transmissions deliver quicker throttle response and immediate application of power making them a good choice if your class of racing allows for this option.
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]]> TCI Product Tech jjamros http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/tci-top-10-faq-3939.html TCI 6x Six-Speed Transmission FAQs http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/tci-6x-six-speed-transmission-faqs-3000-new-post.html Wed, 13 Jan 2010 16:55:02 GMT Q: What signals does it need from the engine?
A: TPS and RPM

Q: What yoke does it use?
A: TH400/4L80e Slip yoke

Q: What shifter do I need to operate the transmission?
A: Any standard 4 speed automatic forward pattern shifter.

Q: What do I need to know to set up the computer?
A: You will have to answer a few simple questions like Rear Gear Ratio, Max Engine RPM, Tire Height, Number of Cylinder, Tach Type, and TPS set up.

Q: How does the transmission know when to go into manual shifting mode?
A: A toggle switch will have to be wired in utilizing a 12v source.

Q: What are the dimensions of the 6x six speed?
A: Overall dimensions are:




Q: Do I have to use the paddle shifter?
A: No. You can use just a floor shifter and the transmission will shift automatically or you can wire up your own two-button set to manual up shift and down shift the forward gears.

Q: What is the converter bolt pattern on the converters for the 6x six speed?
A: TCI® Torque Converters have both narrow (10.75”) and wide GM (11.5”) bolt patterns.

Q: Does the 6x use a lock up style converter?
A: Yes

Q: Is this the same as a 6L80e?
A: No. This is a transmission that TCI® has designed using a 4L80E as the base model.

Q: Can this transmission operate with a factory computer or without the TCI® computer?
A: No. The 6x transmission has to use our TCI® Transmission Control Unit for proper operation.

Q: What engines will this transmission bolt up to?
A: The standard 6x comes with the standard GM bellhousing bolt pattern. However we have adapter bellhousings to go to Ford: Small block, Big Block, and Modular engines, as well as Chrysler: Small Block, Big Block, and Hemi engines.

Q: What starter do I use for a Chrysler or Ford application?
A: Any stock or aftermarket starter will work.

Q: Can I shift through all six gears with my floor shifter?
A: No, the manual valve, and valve body only work off of 4 positions. Shifting manually with a floor shift would only allow gears 1,3 and 5.

Q: Will this system work with my FAST™ XFI™ unit?
A: Yes, this system incorporates 2 CAN connectors that simply plug into the FAST™ "XFI link".

Q: Can the gear ratios be changed?
A: Yes, but the current ratios that we have give the transmission the best spread between shifts.

Q: Will this help my fuel efficiency vs. my TH-400?
A: Yes, when using any 3 speed transmission high gear is 1:1 with a non lock- up converter, whereas the 6x has a high gear of .75:1 and a lock-up converter.

Q: Do you offer cooler fittings for AN connections?
A: Yes, you do have the option to purchase a fitting that will have #6 AN fitting (#831011).

Q: Is this a factory planetary?
A: No, this is a 6 pinion rear and 5 pinion front planetary that is designed and manufactured at TCI®.

Q: Can I use my factory LS1 (2,3,6,7, etc.) flexplate with this transmission and converter.
A: No, you will have to use one of our LS1 flexplates (#399754 LS1 wide GM wide pattern, #399755 LS9, or #399756 LSA), and the crank adapter that comes with each flex plate.

Q: How much horsepower will the transmission withstand?
A: The 6x has a limited lifetime warranty up to 850HP

Q: Can I use my factory steering wheel with the paddle shifter?
A: No. You must use an aftermarket 5 or 6 bolt style steering wheel.

Q: How many quarts of fluid does it hold?
A: Typically the 6x will hold 12-14 quarts but that will vary depending on converter size.

Q: Will it work with a PCS controller?
A: No

Q: Will my MAC laptop connect?
A: Yes, but you will need to call TCI® for details on how to set it up.

Q: What is HDT Coating™?
A: HDT Coating™ means “Heat Dissipating Technology™”. It is a specially formulated coating that we use on every transmission and torque converter to help dissipate heat that is generated in normal operation.

Q: Will the paint on the inside of the pan gum up the valve body and destroy my new transmission?
A: No. The coating on the inside of the pan is an “E-Coating” that will not come off or harm the transmission. Some OEM’s have used this same coating for numerous years. ]]> Q: What signals does it need from the engine?

A: TPS and RPM



Q: What yoke does it use?

A: TH400/4L80e Slip yoke



Q: What shifter do I need to operate the transmission?

A: Any standard 4 speed automatic forward pattern shifter.



Q: What do I need to know to set up the computer?

A: You will have to answer a few simple questions like Rear Gear Ratio, Max Engine RPM, Tire Height, Number of Cylinder, Tach Type, and TPS set up.



Q: How does the transmission know when to go into manual shifting mode?

A: A toggle switch will have to be wired in utilizing a 12v source.



Q: What are the dimensions of the 6x six speed?

A: Overall dimensions are:









Q: Do I have to use the paddle shifter?

A: No. You can use just a floor shifter and the transmission will shift automatically or you can wire up your own two-button set to manual up shift and down shift the forward gears.



Q: What is the converter bolt pattern on the converters for the 6x six speed?

A: TCI® Torque Converters have both narrow (10.75”) and wide GM (11.5”) bolt patterns.



Q: Does the 6x use a lock up style converter?

A: Yes



Q: Is this the same as a 6L80e?

A: No. This is a transmission that TCI® has designed using a 4L80E as the base model.



Q: Can this transmission operate with a factory computer or without the TCI® computer?

A: No. The 6x transmission has to use our TCI® Transmission Control Unit for proper operation.



Q: What engines will this transmission bolt up to?

A: The standard 6x comes with the standard GM bellhousing bolt pattern. However we have adapter bellhousings to go to Ford: Small block, Big Block, and Modular engines, as well as Chrysler: Small Block, Big Block, and Hemi engines.



Q: What starter do I use for a Chrysler or Ford application?

A: Any stock or aftermarket starter will work.



Q: Can I shift through all six gears with my floor shifter?

A: No, the manual valve, and valve body only work off of 4 positions. Shifting manually with a floor shift would only allow gears 1,3 and 5.



Q: Will this system work with my FAST™ XFI™ unit?

A: Yes, this system incorporates 2 CAN connectors that simply plug into the FAST™ "XFI link".



Q: Can the gear ratios be changed?

A: Yes, but the current ratios that we have give the transmission the best spread between shifts.



Q: Will this help my fuel efficiency vs. my TH-400?

A: Yes, when using any 3 speed transmission high gear is 1:1 with a non lock- up converter, whereas the 6x has a high gear of .75:1 and a lock-up converter.



Q: Do you offer cooler fittings for AN connections?

A: Yes, you do have the option to purchase a fitting that will have #6 AN fitting (#831011).



Q: Is this a factory planetary?

A: No, this is a 6 pinion rear and 5 pinion front planetary that is designed and manufactured at TCI®.



Q: Can I use my factory LS1 (2,3,6,7, etc.) flexplate with this transmission and converter.

A: No, you will have to use one of our LS1 flexplates (#399754 LS1 wide GM wide pattern, #399755 LS9, or #399756 LSA), and the crank adapter that comes with each flex plate.



Q: How much horsepower will the transmission withstand?

A: The 6x has a limited lifetime warranty up to 850HP



Q: Can I use my factory steering wheel with the paddle shifter?

A: No. You must use an aftermarket 5 or 6 bolt style steering wheel.



Q: How many quarts of fluid does it hold?

A: Typically the 6x will hold 12-14 quarts but that will vary depending on converter size.



Q: Will it work with a PCS controller?

A: No



Q: Will my MAC laptop connect?

A: Yes, but you will need to call TCI® for details on how to set it up.



Q: What is HDT Coating™?

A: HDT Coating™ means “Heat Dissipating Technology™”. It is a specially formulated coating that we use on every transmission and torque converter to help dissipate heat that is generated in normal operation.



Q: Will the paint on the inside of the pan gum up the valve body and destroy my new transmission?

A: No. The coating on the inside of the pan is an “E-Coating” that will not come off or harm the transmission. Some OEM’s have used this same coating for numerous years.
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf TCI 6x Six-Speed Q&A.pdf (104.5 KB)
]]> TCI Product Tech CPG Marketing http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/tci-6x-six-speed-transmission-faqs-3000.html Beat The Heat - Transmission Life Expectancy http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/beat-heat-transmission-life-expectancy-2939-new-post.html Thu, 17 Dec 2009 16:12:06 GMT There's more to coolers than you think: it's no secret that heat kills automatic transmissions. And in high-performance street-strip applications, the problem is especially acute. Small diameter torque converters coupled with stop-and-go traffic greatly increase the heat level in an automatic transmission. In most cases, the extra performance heat under the hood can have the same effect as heavy loads, trailer towing and desert conditions.



How hot is too hot? The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid is between 175 and 225° F. At approximately 240° F, important additives in the ATF begin to cook. The result is the formation of varnish inside the transmission. At approximately 260° F, internal transmission seals (which are typically manufactured from a polyacrylate material) begin to harden. The end results are leaks, both internal and external, simply because the seals lose their elasticity. At approximately 295° F, transmission clutch plates begin to slip because the oil is breaking down further. At approximately 315° F, seals and clutches effectively burn out. Carbon forms in the oil and for all intents and purposes, the transmission is junk. Just for your information, a typical transmission will die within 2000 miles if subjected to 300° F+ heat.

Need help beating the heat? Call TCI at 1-888-776-9824, email us at tech2@tciauto.com or post your questions here. ]]> There's more to coolers than you think: it's no secret that heat kills automatic transmissions. And in high-performance street-strip applications, the problem is especially acute. Small diameter torque converters coupled with stop-and-go traffic greatly increase the heat level in an automatic transmission. In most cases, the extra performance heat under the hood can have the same effect as heavy loads, trailer towing and desert conditions.







How hot is too hot? The ideal operating temperature for automatic transmission fluid is between 175 and 225° F. At approximately 240° F, important additives in the ATF begin to cook. The result is the formation of varnish inside the transmission. At approximately 260° F, internal transmission seals (which are typically manufactured from a polyacrylate material) begin to harden. The end results are leaks, both internal and external, simply because the seals lose their elasticity. At approximately 295° F, transmission clutch plates begin to slip because the oil is breaking down further. At approximately 315° F, seals and clutches effectively burn out. Carbon forms in the oil and for all intents and purposes, the transmission is junk. Just for your information, a typical transmission will die within 2000 miles if subjected to 300° F+ heat.



Need help beating the heat? Call TCI at 1-888-776-9824, email us at tech2@tciauto.com or post your questions here.
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]]> TCI Product Tech hanaylor http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/beat-heat-transmission-life-expectancy-2939.html Converter Stall Speed Explained http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/converter-stall-speed-explained-2699-new-post.html Fri, 18 Sep 2009 14:01:03 GMT One of the most exciting things about a performance street/strip vehicle is its launching power. And with an automatic transmission, much of the take-off is determined by the stall rpm of the torque converter. In this section, engineers at TCI® answer a few commonly asked questions about torque converter stall.

What are the differences between flash stall and brake stall?

Flash stall is the true stall of a torque converter. Brake stall, or “foot brake stall,” is the rpm that occurs when the engine overrides the brake system and the car begins to “push” forward. You simply hold the brake and slowly accelerate until the car bogs the engine down and then begins to move forward.

Which one is the more effective measurement of the two?

Brake stall is NOT an accurate way to properly check the stall because there are too many variables that affect it. Some of these variables include the type of brake system (drum or disc) and brake adjustment. Therefore, when measuring the stall of your torque converter, the flash stall will always be the more effective option of the two.
Note: Using the flash stall to launch from idle is also the more efficient way to “leave the line”, as it doesn’t have any effect on the engine during take-off.
How do you check the stall in your torque converter? What variables factor in, etc?

For the typical street/strip application, the easiest way to check torque converter stall, as TCI® rates it, is by “flash stall”. This can be measured by pressing the accelerator all the way to the floor (full throttle) when the vehicle is in high gear at the lowest speed before it downshifts, and watching the tachometer. The rpm to which it instantly “jumps” is a pretty accurate measurement of the stall rpm of the torque converter. This method works even better if you have a full manual shift transmission.

The second way to measure flash stall in a street/strip vehicle is to floor the throttle from a dead stop off of idle. Look at the tachometer and whatever the rpm jumps to when the car starts to move is the stall rpm. If the cam is too big for the converter or if the rear end gear is too low, it will dramatically affect the stall rpm by decreasing it. In other words, a car with a 3.73 gear will flash stall a converter at a higher rpm than an identical car with a 4.10 gear.

For more information about torque converters or any other drivetrain questions, please call our toll free TRANS HELP® line at 1-888-776-9824, or visit our website at www.tciauto.com. ]]> One of the most exciting things about a performance street/strip vehicle is its launching power. And with an automatic transmission, much of the take-off is determined by the stall rpm of the torque converter. In this section, engineers at TCI® answer a few commonly asked questions about torque converter stall.



What are the differences between flash stall and brake stall?



Flash stall is the true stall of a torque converter. Brake stall, or “foot brake stall,” is the rpm that occurs when the engine overrides the brake system and the car begins to “push” forward. You simply hold the brake and slowly accelerate until the car bogs the engine down and then begins to move forward.



Which one is the more effective measurement of the two?



Brake stall is NOT an accurate way to properly check the stall because there are too many variables that affect it. Some of these variables include the type of brake system (drum or disc) and brake adjustment. Therefore, when measuring the stall of your torque converter, the flash stall will always be the more effective option of the two.

Note: Using the flash stall to launch from idle is also the more efficient way to “leave the line”, as it doesn’t have any effect on the engine during take-off.
How do you check the stall in your torque converter? What variables factor in, etc?



For the typical street/strip application, the easiest way to check torque converter stall, as TCI® rates it, is by “flash stall”. This can be measured by pressing the accelerator all the way to the floor (full throttle) when the vehicle is in high gear at the lowest speed before it downshifts, and watching the tachometer. The rpm to which it instantly “jumps” is a pretty accurate measurement of the stall rpm of the torque converter. This method works even better if you have a full manual shift transmission.



The second way to measure flash stall in a street/strip vehicle is to floor the throttle from a dead stop off of idle. Look at the tachometer and whatever the rpm jumps to when the car starts to move is the stall rpm. If the cam is too big for the converter or if the rear end gear is too low, it will dramatically affect the stall rpm by decreasing it. In other words, a car with a 3.73 gear will flash stall a converter at a higher rpm than an identical car with a 4.10 gear.



For more information about torque converters or any other drivetrain questions, please call our toll free TRANS HELP® line at 1-888-776-9824, or visit our website at www.tciauto.com.
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]]> TCI Product Tech CPG Marketing http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/converter-stall-speed-explained-2699.html