CPG Nation Forum - COMP Cams Install Articles

Building a 850+ HP '03 Cobra Engine

smogridge — Mon, 25 Jan 2010 19:09:13 GMT

The late model Mustang that rings a bell in any blue oval enthusiast's mind is the 2003-2004 Mustang Cobra. At 390 factory-rated horsepower, the supercharged 4.6-liter 4-valve modular engine produced more power than any other late model Mustang in history at the time. Not only were they fast from the factory, but they also took very well to mods.

Case in point, our white 2003 Cobra that ran in the 10-second range on all stock internals. With an upgraded Whipple supercharger, 20+ psi of boost, cat-back exhaust, injectors, upgraded throttle body, and headers, our 4.6L 4-Valve was making 640 rear wheel horsepower. The risk of failure comes with any factory short-block that you push the envelope with, and that is exactly what happened with our Cobra. During one ill-fated drag strip outing, we burned up a few pistons. Because of this, we yanked the engine out and sent it up the road for an overhaul to the well-known blue oval shop, Ford Performance Solutions.

Our goal was simple. 650-700 rear wheel horsepower, but with much lower boost, a more conservative tune-up, and ROCK solid reliability. To do that, we needed more air flow, bigger cams, and a purpose-built short-block that would take a pounding.

You're probably very familiar with our Snake. The aforementioned 2003 Cobra was produced for two years beginning in '03, signifying its 10-year SVT heritage by producing an over-the-top 32-valve, supercharged mod motor that made nearly 400 horsepower. Although there were nearly 20,000 Cobras built during those two years, they have maintained a higher value than any other mass produced late-model Mustang due to its brutal horsepower achievements in both stock or modified form.

�We had been building modular motors since 1995 after the Lincolns came out,� said FPS owner Troy Bowen. �We bought five of the test motors from Ford, and began dissecting them. We then went to Ross to custom make some pistons before anyone else made them. We even did CNC work on almost all the heads they had, even the Titan V-10s. We started getting popular with the Cobra heads and working with the guys that were doing forced induction on them. That's how we got our start�

While pumping out over 670 horsepower to the wheels and running mid 10-second passes, the long block was performing unbelievably in pure stock form. While its fair share of fun would be had from this, it eventually went kaput. Detonation mixed with worn piston rings turned this Cobra into a 2-stroke engine, burning as much oil as it did gas. In addition to the worn rings, 4 melted valves and multiple lost valve guides added insult to injury.

It was time to rebuild the 4.6L step by step, using upgraded pistons and rings from JE Pistons, boring the block with fresh FPS machine work, and adding some of the best valve train components from COMP Cams, and Ferrea. We'll even top her off with an Aeromotive Fuel Rail kit, and we'll be ready to lay down 650+ reliable horsepower that will actually live without eating itself.

The Build: Bottoms Up

Let's start out by reviewing what components we are going to be using in the bottom end of our 4.6L:

� JE Pistons 9.2:1 Compression for Supercharged Applications

� JE Pro Seal Rings

� Manley Rods (Stock) - Resized

� Stock Crank (Forged Steel)

� Pacific Performance Head Stud Kit #1564101

� Pacific Performance Main Stud Kit #1565401

The first course of action to remedy the problem was to get the stock engine torn completely down. When Ford made the supercharged 'OE Cobra 4-valve, they opted for an iron block in order to increase strength for the boosted application. �The 2 versus 4-valve blocks are very similar, though the 3-valve blocks are almost their own block and makes part interchanging difficult,� Troy says. The only cleanup needed on the block was a slight .020 over-bore done on the sleeves at FPS. Head bolts were trashed in favor of a Pacific Performance 8740 chrome moly studs and for the bottom end, the mains received a similar chrome moly stud kit. The stock crank (forged steel) and Manley rods were reused, and then it was time for the pistons.

The JE 9.2:1 dish pistons are intended for a 3.552-inch bore. The tops of the pistons have been thermal coated to help prevent further detonation, and the skirts have a dry film lubricant to aid in any oil starvation problems in the cylinders.

We went to no one other than JE Pistons for some of their finest slugs designed for the 4.6L Modular engine. JE built us a set of custom pistons forged and CNC machined from 2618 Aluminum. These were designed for use with supercharged applications (as well as nitrous or turbo) and utilize 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3mm rings. JE also include the pins, spirolox, and a full set of JE Pro Seal rings.

FPS Engine Builder "Sam, the Super Man" sets the ring gap in the cylinders before installing the JE Pro Seal rings on the pistons.

Hung to the JE pistons are the stock Manley H-beam rods. Ford went with these premium rods in order to ensure years of problem free service, and these were going to be more than adequate for our power needs. The crank is again a reused stock Forged Cobra crank that was cleaned and micro polished, and finishing up the short block was a set of OEM main bearings. Now, it was on to the long-block . . .

Long-Block Dreaming

Horsepower is almost always in the long-block. To that end, our major upgrades were a full set of COMP 4.6L 4-valve Modular camshafts, CNC-ported 4V heads, Ferrea stainless valves, and COMP valvetrain. All of those would help the 3.3-liter Whipple make big efficient power, with the Aeromotive Fuel Rails providing the fueling.

Here's what we used:

� Ferrea 37mm stainless intake valves #F1450P

� Ferrea 30mm stainless exhaust valves #F1451P

� Ford Performance Solutions, Complete CNC Portinp

� Comp Cams Beehive Valve Springs - 324 lb/in Rate #26123

� Comp Cams Titanium Retainers - 798-32

� Comp Cams Modular Camshafts - 106360 - XE266BH-116

� Aeromotive Fuel Rail Kit - 14122

Let's start with the CNC-ported 4V cylinder heads from FPS:

Again, as with the block, the heads were torn down to bare castings, and the first action was to weld up and repair the melted combustion chambers. From there, it was time for some machining, starting with a valve job to accommodate the fresh Ferrea valves that were going to be installed. The final machine that the heads made their way to was the CNC. Both the intake and exhaust ports got a moderate porting job to help flow the larger amounts of air being crammed into and out of the cylinders.

The stock intake ports originally flowed at 238 CFM at .800 lift and now flow 293 CFM, a 50+ cfm increase. The exhaust ports increased even more with 165 CFM at .600 stock and then 253 CFM ported. �The 2-valves are very limited in the short turn areas of the head,� Bowen stated. �The low floor as it rolls into the port is flat, and goes right down into the valve seat. The 4-valve has so much more area, it is just like a pocket of valves. We have picked up over 100 more CFM in porting. We have got them up to 325 CFM on the intake port. The 4-valve 5.4-liter GT heads are even nicer, as they raised the floor to help out with the short turn.�

4-Valve Valvetrain: Double the Fun

When building a 4-valve head cam engine, you get double the fun. Double the valves, double the cams.. and double the complexity. Luckily we had some good partners like Ferrea and Comp Cams.

Assembling the heads started with new bronze valve guides wrapped around Ferrea's Competition Plus 4.6L Modular intake and exhaust valves. We settled on 37-mm on the intake and 30mm on the exhaust side, which are stock OEM replacements. These valves feature top of the line heat treating, and can even be used with the OE-style multi-groove style keepers. Other features include hard chrome stems, swirl-polished and under-cut stems, and cobalt-hard tips.

[IMG]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/10/9.JPG[/IMG

Controlling those Ferrea's valve movement was a set of Comp Cam's latest Modular Beehive "Ovate-design" valve springs, good for up to a .500-inch lift cam. Plus, they don't require any machine work to fit.. yup they go right into the stock spring seats. They offer 90 lbs of seat load @1.47-inch of installed height, and 252 lbss of open load @ .970-inch installed height. The valve springs were held in place with Comp Cams Titanium retainers, lighter than the stock steel stainless retainers, and are also heat-treated to increase strength to the 6AL4V alloy.

Next up, something to snap open and then close those Ferrea valves: four of the very finest of Comp Cams "XE-R" 4-valve camshafts. The cams we selected are perfectly suited for a supercharged street car like our Cobra, while also having favorable attributes for the 1320. This cam is a stocking cam for COMP, and it's optimized with a 116-LSA for forced induction like we mentioned, with a 1,500-6,000 rpm curve.

It was time to sandwich the heads and block together with our Cometic MLS head gaskets. Next, it was time to move to the timing chains since this was a DOHC engine. It's important to make sure you TDC the engine and mark the chains so they are in the right place. Being off even just one tooth on your chain can result in a bent valve.

With the engine flipped on its head, Sam installed our new Canton Racing Products 7-quart oil pan. The pan allows us to keep the engine temperature lower while keeping the oil close to the pick up with the anti-slosh baffle. There is also a 1/2� NPT hole in the pan for adding an oil temperature gauge down the road.

For increased induction, we had to start with the additional fueling needed. The new 72 lb injectors were secured by Aeromotive�s new fuel rail kit that was designed specifically for the 4-valve power plant. Aeromotive includes all the lines and fittings you need, even a convenient adapter piece that will utilize the factory fuel pressure sensor.

To aid in the Cobra�s previous power, the blower was already upgraded to a 2.3-liter Whipple Charger that saw over 20 psi. But in an effort to cram even more boost into the motor, we upgraded the blower to Whipple�s 3.3-liter version that can produce up to 30 psi, which is approximately the same power as the 2.3-liter, but on less boost.

Final Thoughts

Now that our engine build was coming to close, we asked Troy what he thought the potential for this engine was, and what we should have learned. �First off, you did the right thing by putting good JE pistons and good rings in it,� Troy said. �Next, you addressed the head and intake flow with the ported CNC heads, and the Ferrea valves. Make sure good port work is done to the intake. Once the port is cleaned up and working right, it will help with the combustion problems. Finally, you picked some good mild cams. You don't need to get aggressive and radical with a 2003 Cobra engine, the supercharger is providing plenty of boost to make the power with solid reliability."

�Tuning is very critical on a modular motor,� Troy continued. �They are very quick to detonate and you need to make sure that the timing and fuel curves are on key. The way the fuel enters the chamber, it doesn�t have a lot of swirl. The fuel wants to throw fuel across the valve over to the far side of the exhaust."

"What happens is you have a denser fuel charge by the exhaust, so it burns from the intake to the exhaust side, so they have a hot spot on the far side of the piston. Some shops will start with a centrifugal map in the ECU when tuning a roots style modular motor, and they end up killing the motor. Since the Whipple's are positive displacement, they are already making boost at 2,000 rpm. You have to immediately pull the timing out of them...�

Eagerly Waiting the Installation

While we can�t complain that we got over 11,000 highly abused miles that included over 40 runs at the track with it, it was inevitable that the stock engine was going to slowly pass away. With a gaggle of low 10-second runs, we knew that was needed to build was reliable power, not really more power.

Ford Performance Solutions was very helpful when it came to building this fresh 4-valve that we hope will produce an additional 300 horsepower to the wheels over a stock 2003 Cobra. Troy and the team assembled the engine with all of our quality goodies, and soon we will be putting the 4.6-liter back into the Cobra for some tire roasting fun. We'll bring you an update as soon as we stab the engine in!

Sources:

Ford Performance Solutions

Web: www.f-p-s.com

Contact: (714) 305-8531

Comp Cams

Web: http://www.compcams.com

Contact: 1-800-999-0853

JE Pistons

Web: http://www.jepistons.com

Contact: 714-898-9764

Ferrea Valves

Web: http://www.ferrea.com

Canton

Web: http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/

Contact: 203.481.9460

Aeromotive

Web: http://www.aeromotiveinc.com

Contact: (913) 647-7300

Attached Thumbnails

StangTV Builds A Nasty 408ci SBF With FPS

jbarker — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 20:09:59 GMT

One of the requests that we get over and over again is 'More Engine Builds'. Well, you got your wish with this build of a 550 hp 408ci small block Ford by Ford Performance Solutions. Owner Troy Bowen used his over 15 years of engine building experience and got in touch with the industry leaders to come up with a engine combination that would make 550+ hp, run on pump gas, and be fully streetable -- all without breaking the bank.

When building a custom-built stroker 351W - there are literally millions of options. From block decisions, to rotating assemblies, to cylinder heads; it's difficult to know where to start. We think a good place to start is a good reputable engine builder that spends his every week creating engine combinations from wild to mild. Our guy: Ford Performance Solution's Troy Bowen.

We gave Troy four basic parameters to work with when we started to blueprint out our 351W.

1. Don't blow the budget, but don't scrimp. Make it affordable.

2. Looking for 550-600 horsepower on pump gas

3. Everything "off the shelf" No exotic or custom components.

4. Use a carb and hydraulic cam.

We spoke with Troy for about an hour on the phone as he started to come up with a game plan. For the short-block, we would use a stock block 351W with a girdle to keep the price down, along with a steel crank and rods that would punch the engine out to 408 cubic inches. SRP pistons and JE Pro Seal rings would make an affordable 1-2 punch.

For the long-block, Troy selected a full compliment of Edelbrock goodies: CNC ported Edelbrock Victor Jr. heads, Edelbrock Super Victor Intake, plus Edelbrock valve covers and air cleaner. A Quick Fuel carb would top the intake.

Here is the quick run down on the parts we came up with.

Ford Performance Solutions� 408 cubic inch Small Block Ford - Build Essentials

Block: Post 1971 351 W Block, .030 Over, Fully Machined by FPS

Crankshaft: RPM International, 4340 Nitrated, 4.00 Stroke, 2.100 Journals

Rods: RPM International, H-Beam 4340 Steel

Hardware: ARP Bolts

Pistons: JE SRP Professional Pistons

Piston Rings: JE Piston Rings; 1.2 mm top ring, 1.5 mm Napier 2nd ring, 3.0 mm oil ring

Oil Pan: Canton Oil Pan

Heads: Edelbrock Victor Jr Heads, CNC Ported by Edelbrock and Assembled

Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Super Victor Intake

Carburetor: Quick Fuel Carburetor

Gaskets: SCE Gaskets

Camshaft: Comp Cams� Xtreme Energy� Camshaft; Lift: .576 Intake, .600 Exhaust; Duration @ .050: 242 Intake, 248 Exhaust; Lobe Separation: 110.0

Lifters: Comp Cams� Lifters

Push Rods: Comp Cams� Hi-Tech�, 5/16" Diameter, 8.150" Length

Valve Springs: Comp Cams� Valve Springs

Rocker Arms: Harland Sharp Rocker arms

Balancer: Professional Products Balancer

Extra Goodies: FPS Girdle, for increased bottom end support; Edelbrock Valve Covers & Air Cleaner, for good looks!

The Short Block:

For this build, building a short block around a good used block made sense. We chose a premium early casting that was in good shape. Especially when you consider the prep that goes into these block when they come into FPS. Not only do they get a shinny new paint job at the end of it all, time is spent hot tanking, magafluxing, cleaning, and honing every surface to insure the blocks rigidity.

"Prepping the block is a big step in building an engine. It is the foundation of which everything is mounted to, and it takes the most abuse during combustion," Bowen explained. We were confident that this block would hold up to the power we are expecting to see from this engine, and more so. This block should be good to around 600-675 hp.

FPS set us up with a post 1971 Windsor blocks, and for a good reason. "In 1972 Ford decided to battle emission standards by lowering the compression ratio of these blocks. Instead of redesigning the engine, they simply casted the block with a taller deck height. That means we can squeeze more cubic inches out of our small block," explained Bowen.

FPS bored the walls of each cylinder out .030 over, bringing the total cylinder bore to 4.030 inches.

Camshaft

For the camshaft in this engine, we went with COMP Cams�. COMP� does a really nice job selecting the right cam for any engine. So when we told them about the rest of the components we were using, they fired over one of their Xtreme Energy� Hydraulic Roller Camshafts. We spoke to Chris Mays from COMP� to get all the facts on why this cam would work well with our engine.

Chris explained, �when deciding which cam to use in a street/strip car, you first have to decide how much �street� you want out of the engine. That will determine how aggressive the cam can be made.� If your car has a stick, then you can have any "stall" speed you wish. (You simple press the clutch in and rev the engine to the desired speed.) COMP� recommended a 3,000 RPM "stall" speed that their cam part number: 35-427-8 uses. This cam works very well with bolt on modifications such as headers, which is something most Fox owners have. It has a little bit of a rough idle, but again that because we wanted a little less �street� out of our engine.

Here are the other specs on the cam:

* Intake Duration at .050": 242

* Exhaust Duration at .050": 248

* Intake Valve Lift: .576

* Exhaust Valve Lift: .600

The Bottom End - Crankshaft, Pistons and Rods

Going in right under the cam was a 4340 nitrated crankshaft from RPM International. This crank will spin our pistons to the tune of a 4.000 inch stroke. With 2.100 inch journals, this crank was right at home in our Windsor block.

To help stiffen the bottom end of our short block, FPS set us up with one of their Premium Main Girdles. This billet chro-moly piece ties all five mains together to help prevent crank walk and keeps the main webbing of the block intact. Troy clams that this girdle increases the strength and stability of the lower end of the block by 40%.

We then stuck on a COMP Cams� Timing Chain Set. This gear has three keys to provide any adjustment we might need.

SRP Pistons by JE

We chose a set of SRP Professional Pistons that will be sealed to the cylinder walls via a set of JE pistons rings. We went with a flat top piston to work with our naturally aspirated set up. These pistons are forged from 4032 aluminum alloy that reduces the piston-to-wall clearance and will give us a quite stroke.

FPS fitted them with JE Pro Seal 1.2 mm top ring, 1.5 mm Napier 2nd ring, and a 3.0 mm for the oil ring. The 1.2 mm top ring is a design that SRP took from modern engines and retrofitted them to work with our older small block. It give us a more durable ring package that will help keep our engine out of the repair shop.

SRP Professional Piston JE Ring Package:

* 1.2 mm Top Ring

* 1.5 mm 2nd Ring

* 3.0 mm Oil Ring

Tying the pistons to the crankshaft, are 8 RPM International Rods. These rods are an H-Beam design that are forged 4340 steel. They are designed to use ARP�s 8740 Cap Screws which are a 7/16th bolt that is designed to hold up to 200,000 psi - more than enough for this application.

Oil Pan

To seal the oil pan, and all other areas requiring a gasket, we used SCE Gaskets. SEC has gaskets and kits of gaskets for a number of late model and classic engines. This makes it easy when ordering as you are always sure you have the right gasket for your application.

To hold the oil under the block, we went with a Canton Racing Products street/strip oil pan. The pan has an extra deep sump that measures 9 inch deep by 7 inch long sump that gives this pan a total oil capacity of 7 quarts. It also helps this aluminum pan catch as much air as possible passing under the car to help cool the oil waiting to be cycled throughout the engine. There is a provision for one of Canton�s Pan Mounted Dipsticks, that way we can see exactly how much oil is in the pan.

Lifters - COMP� Retro Fit Kit

Being that the cam we are using is a hydraulic roller cam, you die hard Ford fans will note that the 302 engine family, including the 351 Windsor, did not come with a hydraulic roller cam option. You would be correct. So why are we sliding a hydraulic cam into an engine not designed to use one?

Hydraulic cams are able to outlast and now recently, out perform their flat tappet counterparts. �If you can have your cake and eat it too, that�s always a bonus,� as Chris says. COMP Cams� is aware of this and that is the reason they developed a kit that allows you to slide in a hydraulic roller into these older engines that were not designed to accept them. The kit we used features a spider like designed support bracket that screws into the bottom of the lifter valley.

Once the bracket is installed, we moved right into the install of the lifters. The lifters we used were specifically designed for use on a hydraulic roller cam. The High Energy� lifters are an OE style design and will work perfectly with our camshaft. They installed very quickly as all we had to do was drop them in and tighten down the bracket once and for all.

Balancer

To keep our rotating mass in balance, we installed a PRW Performance Quotient Series Fluid Damper. Inside this piece, is a steel inertia ring that is encapsulated by high viscosity silicone gel. The ring floats in the get to reduce engine harmonics across the RPM band. Outside are easy to read timing marks and the ever important SFI approved marking.

The Long Block: Edelbrock Victor JR CNC Heads

For our Ford, we wanted to build a really trick set of heads so we could really pump some power out. We started out with Edelbrock�s Victor Jr Heads that were completed CNC Ported by Edelbrock.

These heads leave the spark plugs and the valves in the stock general location, but everything else has been tweaked for more performance. We got in touch with Rick Roberts, an Engineer from Edelbrock, to find out more about these heads.

Edelbrock CNC ports the intake and exhaust ports on these heads to a smooth 210 cc on the intake side, and 75 cc for the exhaust. The entries and exits are CNC matched to the gasket and blended from there. The overall total combustion chamber on the Victor Jr�s were 60 cc on our application, but Edelbrock also has a 70 cc version for those running turbos or other forms of forced induction.

These heads are the key to how this engine is going to make big power. "It all comes down to air demand," says Roberts on the sizes of the runners and combustion chambers, "These would work great with a small engine turning a lot of RPM or a big engine at moderate RPM. This head could be on a dedicated strip engine or equally at home on a street engine." FPS confirmed this as well. "These heads will really shine the higher the RPMs go with the size engine we built," says Bowen. Those large runners and smooth transitions will make getting the air fuel mix into the engine easy, that means less power lost in the engine and more for the tires.

Our heads came complete with valves already installed, but Edelbrock also has a version bare if you have your own special valvetrain to add. Our valves measured 2.05 on the intake, and 1.60 for the exhaust. We used a set of COMP�s dual springs to provide the closing power for our valves. COMP� recommended a 160 lb. 1.880 spring for use on the intake valve and, a 3.95 lb. 1.35 spring for the exhaust.

FPS was kind enough to bolt the heads up to the Super Flow 600 flow bench they have at FPS to see what they would do. The results were very nice. Check out the results on the flow graph. Keep in mind that these tests were done with no pipes bolted up to the exhaust ports. Doing so would add 15-20 CFM.

Here is the flow graph from our heads.

Valvetrain - Harland Sharp

To really get these heads rocken, we choose Harland Sharp Victor Jr specific shaft style rocker arms. We spoke with Randy Becker, Jr of Harland Sharp to get the facts on the shaft style rocker arms.

�Shaft style rocker arms offer improved stability and eliminate flex in the rocker stud and girdle," said Becker. "It lets you push the limits of the cam in high-lift race engines.� He also went on and explained how shaft style rocker arms offer more material in the mounts and other components compared to stud mount rocker arms.

"It also gives better geometry, which is why a shaft system can last longer in a high RPM engine." Made sense to us. Plus, more valve lift due to less deflection is a bonus. Although our engine did not have a radical cam, this is insurance for the present, and gives us a stout rocker arm for the future.

Made from 2024 aluminum T3511, these rocker arms are very rigid. We stuck with the Ford 1.6 rocker arm ratio for our Windsor. When selecting what ratio you should run, Randy says pick your cam first. Then pick up the cam card and give them a call. They will help you select the right set of rocker arms and the ratio for them using the info about the cam.

Capping off our valve train was 16 pushrods from COMP�. Their Hi-Tech� Pushrods are a one piece design that is made from chrome molly. We selected their standard length offering in a 5/16 inch size to work with our Victor Jrs. They slid right in as we started to mate the rocker arms with the heads.

Intake Manifold: Edelbrock Super Victor 351W

To distribute the air fuel mixture to each cylinder, we went with the Edelbrock Super Victor Intake. This aluminum intake is designed to work exceptionally well with after market heads such as the Victor Jr Heads we are using. The runners are a 3.20 square-inch cross sectional design. This intake works well for everything from a high RPM race engine to the 6,500 RPM big Windsor we are using.

Carburetor

Finishing off the mechanical portion of our build is the Quick Fuel Technology Q Series Carburetor, in a 950 CFM size.

These carbs are offered in both race and street/strip models with CFM ranging from 650 to 1050. They recommend the Q-950 model for our Windsor. This starts with a 950 cfm Proform main body that is made from billet aluminum. This is a high end carb that features billet metering blocks and has a street price of around $650.

Quick Fuel also makes a variety of carbs designated for Street, Street/Strip, Drag racing and Circle Track depending on your engine combination. You really need to give them a call so they can spec out a carb for your exact combination. One of the best features of our carb was the fact that Quick Fuel set it up already with a great baseline setup for our engine:

Primary Main Jet: 78

Primary Nozzle: 33

Secondary Jet: 86

Secondary Nozzle: 35

Pri Idle Air Bleed: 70

Needle & Seat: 120

Hi Speed Bleed: 32

Power Valve: 4.5

The Finishing Touches

The last thing we needed to cap off our build was a set of valve covers and an air cleaner. We used Edelbrock�s new Victor Series Valve Covers and Air Cleaner. We are really in love with the finish on both of these parts. The valve covers are offered in two different sizes and fit most 302 and 351 Windsor-based engines.

These include breather holes on the driver side which we filled using a black satin breather to match. The air cleaner too comes in the black satin finish and is offered in two different sizes. Install on both of these were very straight forward and after a few more final checks, it was time for some completed photos.

The best part of the build in my mind, putting that last part on the engine.

Ready to be plugged into a Fox Body.

Looks good from all angles!

At this point many would expect to see use bolt this 408 up to an engine dyno to see what kind of power numbers it could produce. Not the case this time. We are going to stick this engine under the hood of a Fox Body Mustang, and then move it to our DynoJet to see what it can do. While we don�t expect to see any more than 500 hp at the wheels, that is still miles ahead of the tired old 5.0 L that was originally in our project car. Stay tuned as we plug this engine into the car and strap it up on the dyno!

Sources:

Ford Performance Solutions

Web: www.f-p-s.com

Phone: 714-773-9027

SRP/JE Pistons

Web: www.jepistons.com

Phone: 714-898-9764

Canton Racing Products

Web: www.cantonracingproducts.com

Phone: 203-481-9460

Quick Fuel

Web: www.quickfueltechnology.com

Phone: 270-793-0900

SCE Gaskets

Web: www.scegaskets.com

Phone: 661-728-9200

COMP Cams�

Web: www.compcams.com

Phone: 1-800-999-0853

Story courtesy of StangTV.com!

Attached Thumbnails

Building a "Rookie Proof" Short Block Powered By COMP Cams

jbarker — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:40:12 GMT

OneDirt�s project car, a street stock late '70s Camaro, had experienced a run of bad luck: overheating problems, over-revving problems, transmission failure, and finally - a blown engine. Maxx was in serious need of some professional help. We rounded up the wagons and had a meeting to determine what our next step would be. Obviously, we had to get some of our friends involved in the planning of building a bulletproof engine that a first year driver couldn�t blow up, yet stay within the rules and budget of a grassroots race team. OneDirt and friends have come up with the ultimate in grunt for MAXX.

The Key Players:

Pro Power Performance Parts -- Dale Metlika of Pro Power Performance Parts in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, is a frequent OneDirt contributor and onscreen talent. Metlika cut his teeth on drag racing, and has been dealing with performance engines since the age of fourteen. A self-proclaimed �tekspert,� he often provides technical advice to many engine builders in every form of auto racing.

COMP Cams� -- When it comes to circle track cams, COMP Cams� has been an industry leader for decades. Therefore, calling up COMP� to get their take on what cam would be most desirable for this application was virtually instinctive. We also wanted to get some input from racers about what parts we should use, and COMP Cams� put us in touch with Chris Douglas and Ashley Newman. Douglas raced Outlaw Modifieds, and Newman races modifieds in the Memphis area (where they have some scary fast racing). We knew that they would steer us in the right direction when picking a dependable performance cam in a �limited� class. Douglas and Newman hooked us up with the perfect cam, lifters and timing chain set for our application.

Torres Performance and Machining -- Joe and Luis Torres have been involved in performance engine work and machining for years, first in Southern California, then in Phoenix, Arizona. They have relocated back to Southern California, and are conveniently located a block away from the PowerTV / OneDirt studio. We have had a few items machined by them, and are always impressed with the quality and speed of this shop. While they do a lot of performance engine builds, the Torres brothers are also very familiar with a stock setup and how to coax a little more out of a street engine.

Torres Machining and Performance - our local machine shop.

The Parts

We started with a broken in four-bolt main Chevy block that had a standard bore, but showed a ridge that was almost as large as the Continental Divide. There were some doubts that the bores would clean up at thirty thousandths over standard, but as luck would have it, we ended up with a good clean block at .030 over. Torres Machinery hot tanked and jet cleaned the block to remove any grit and grime from the freshly machined bullet. We were starting with a clean slate and needed some beefy performance parts and needed to stay within a budget.

KB Hypereutectic Performance Pistons and Prime One Connecting Rods

Pro Power recommended the KB hypereutectic pistons for the build because hypereutectic pistons can run at a tighter clearance and have bigger valve reliefs. Tighter sidewall clearance with good piston rings will provide more horsepower in a naturally aspirated �limited� engine class, where flat top pistons are required. �This is where the most horsepower can be made in this class," states Metlika. "A good piston / ring combination is essential.�

We mounted these pistons on a Forged 5140 steel, lighter weight, stock like rod. These rods feature a bushed floating piston pin instead of a pressed in pin. This combination is good for up to 550 horses on a naturally aspirated engine, and is very dependable - exactly what we needed.

Piston Specs:

* Keith Black Hypereutectic Performance Pistons

* Part Number KB231-030

* Flat Top with two valve relief

* Effective Head Volume: 6cc

* Bore: 4.030"

* 5.7" Connecting Rod Required for a 3.480 stroke

* Compression Height: 1.561"

* Crank to deck clearance: 9.025"

* Piston weight: 485 grams

* Piston Pin weight: 102 grams

* Pin Diameter: 0.9272"

* Piston to wall clearance (2 BBL gas application):.0015"-.0045"

Connecting Rod Specs:

* Prime One Connecting Rods (Forged 5140 Steel I-Beam rod)

* Part Number: 650-11000

* Length: 5.700"

* Housing Bore: 2.225 (fits on standard 2.100 Chevy large journal)

* Pin Size: .927 (standard Chevy sized pin)

* Pin Fitment: Bronze Bushing for full floating pins

* Bolts: 8740 bolts

* Horsepower Rated: Up to 550 horsepower

We selected the KB Hypereutectic Pistons.

Total Seal Piston Rings

One of the crown jewels in this budget build, total seal gapless piston rings are easy to break in and are proven to provide more horsepower than a conventional ring set. These rings do not fit into a �gray area� in the rules - they are perfectly legal, and as Metlika explained, �these rings are part of the joy of buying aftermarket parts.� We expect to see gains as high as 30% in horsepower using these rings with our piston and rod combination.

Piston Ring Specs:

* Part Number: TL3690 35

* Bore: 4.035

* Ring Sizes: 1/16 Top, 1/16 Gapless Second, 3/16 Low Tension Oil rings

King Bearings

Once again relying on Pro Power�s expertise with this type of engine build, Metlika recommended the King Engine Bearings for the rod end bearings as well as the main bearings. He explained that the King bearings are a bi-metal construction, whereas most conventional bearings are a tri-metal construction. �The bi-metal constructed bearings offer resistance to temperature while still being able to handle high loads, plus they are 30% lighter than tri-metal bearings,� states Metlika. The "Alecular" material used in the construction of the bearings provides embeddability to catch and hold particles, so they don�t scratch the crankshaft journals. This is a good thing for a dirt track engine - we had to have these.

Connecting Rod Bearing Specs - Part Number: CR807SI

Main Bearing Specs: Part Number: MB557SI

King Bearings with bi-metal construction.

Professional Products PowerForce Harmonic Dampener

Understanding that we wanted to be able to get the engine turning quickly to get off the corners as fast as possible, Metlika recommended the PowerForce Harmonic Damper. According to Metlika, this dampener is �very reasonably priced and does the job as well as any performance balancer, at significantly less weight.� Less rotating mass means faster acceleration off the corners. We bought this harmonic dampener in order to take advantage of every ounce of lowered rotating mass possible.

* Part Number: 80010

* Dimensions: 6.1" OD x .75" thick

* Weight: 5.08 lbs

* Material: 1045 Steel

Melling Select M Oil Pump

Metlika advised us not to �cheat yourself on your lubrication system,� and selected the Melling Select M oil pump, which has a 25% increase in oil volume over the stock GM pump. While still a cast steel unit, the housing and cover are CNC machined and a steel rod with a steel coupler is included. The pickup is a press in 5/8 diameter screened tube.

* Part Number: 10550

* Type: Cast Steel, High Volume

Prime One Cast Steel Crankshaft

Pro Power offers a line of engine components that is designed to provide customers with high-end performance at bargain prices. We chose the cast steel crankshaft from Pro Power�s Prime One line. Metlika explained that the Prime One crankshaft is �affordable, stronger than stock, and is a brand new piece.� We liked the idea of a good priced, brand new crankshaft that was better than the stock piece, so we put that on our shopping list too.

* Part number: 910-11100

* Type: Cast Steel

* Main Journals: 2.449"

* Rod Journals: 2.100"

* Stroke: 3.480"

* Required Connecting Rod: 5.7"

* Balance: Internal

* Rated: 600 Horsepower

COMP Cams� Hydraulic Cam, Hydraulic Lifters, and Timing Assembly

Here�s where our motor really shines. We got ahold of Ashley Newman at COMP Cams� for a custom selected camshaft that fit in the rules of our local tracks. Surprisingly, Newman guided us to a hydraulic camshaft and lifter setup. Based on the information that we provided, Newman decided that a hydraulic camshaft would be better for the weight of our bomber stock on the short, tight track at Victorville Auto Raceway. It kept us within the lift rules and allowed us to use a stock valve train. Because we are nice guys, we�ll include the part number in case any of the other racers on the track want that little extra edge: CS 280AH-8. Once we get to the track, there�s no more Mr. Nice Guy.

COMP Cams� Hydraulic Camshaft. Part Number 12-325-4 (Grind Number CS 280AH-8)

* Gross valve lift: .483 Intake .483 Exhaust

* Duration @ .050: 232 Intake .237 Exhaust

* Lobe Lift: .322 Intake .322 Exhaust

* Lobe Separation: 108 degrees

To go with our COMP Cams camshaft, we ordered the hydraulic race lifters, which are COMP�s best all-around high performance hydraulic flat tappet lifter. Featuring tight tolerances for mechanical internals with one piece pushrod seats and a lubricated cam face, these are the perfect companion for our camshaft and valvetrain.

About Our Cam Selection

COMP Cams� walked us through the cam selection process, making it easier to get the right part the first time. Ashley Newman of COMP� actually started working with us on this project at the end of last year when we rebuilt the heads. Knowing that we were going to build a short block this year that would be using those cylinder heads, Newman designed the entire valve train around the camshaft that we would be using in the short block build. This is key to building a street stock engine in a class with cam lift rules, and still getting the best performance possible. This is not a service offered exclusively to OneDirt by COMP Cams� - anyone can call the technical service line at COMP� and get the same red carpet treatment that we got.

The track where we would be running the car has some rules regarding engine limitations that we needed to consider for camshaft selection. Maximum allowable valve lift for the track is .485, and they don't allow roller cams or solid lift cams. Given these restrictions, we knew that we were going with a hydraulic cam with gross valve lift under .485 on both intake and exhaust. Because the track is a 3/8 mile dirt track that is semi-banked, and since we were using a mild rear end gear and stock tire diameter, Newman recommended an off the shelf COMP Cams� camshaft that was designed for this application.

"Choosing a wider lobe separation will provide the grunt that you are looking for, and do it smoothly, while the cam duration makes the most of getting fuel in and exhaust out efficiently," explained Newman. Additionally, this cam is fairly maintenance free and very powerful on the track with a stock type engine. Given that Newman is a Rislone USCS Modified Series Champion as well as a camshaft expert, we thought it best to go with his recommendation.

The Build at Torres Machine Shop

Starting with a bare block that had just been baked clean and the bores cleaned up to thirty thousandths over, our guys over at Torres Machining and Performance began our Chevy 350 short block build. Joe Torres installed the cam bearings, while Luis Torres started prepping the block and hanging the rods. Luis explained that assembling the pistons and rods correctly is essential to the life of an engine. �We have a routine that we like to follow for the small block Chevy pistons that begins with making sure that the pistons we are using are mounted on the rods correctly,� Luis tells us. Because we were using pistons with a two valve relief top, Luis reminded us to �lay out the pistons as they would be assembled in the engine, making sure that the valve reliefs are facing inboard to the center of the engine, and the rods with the bearing locks are facing away from the center of the engine."

Our pistons were designed to be used with floating piston pins, so Luis had to place the rod into the piston, push the pin through the piston and rod, and secure it with a spiral lock. He explained that �stretching out the spiral lock makes it easier to install into the lock ring groove.�

Measuring ring fit in the cylinder bores.

After he had finished assembling the piston and rods, Luis began installing the piston rings. Preparation is key when assembling the rings on the pistons, and checking each ring for any machining burrs or debris is a great place to start. The total seal gapless rings are a file to fit ring set, so the guys at Torres Machining had to measure each ring in the cylinder bores and check the ring gap. Luis pointed out that the hypereutectic pistons expand less than stock cast pistons, so the gap on the rings is different than what is normally listed in the ring installation instructions. To be safe, Luis recommends using the ring gap procedures listed in the piston manufacturer�s instructions.

Installing the rings on the pistons.

Using a piston top, Luis inserts each ring in the cylinder bore that it is to be installed in and pushes it down the bore at least one inch, to avoid any taper from bore recession. Making certain the ring is square in the bore, he measures the ring gap. He then files the rings with a hand-operated ring filing machine if any material needs to be taken off. According to Luis, he uses ten full turns at a maximum on the ring filer, then rechecks the ring gap in the cylinder bore. After each ring is custom fit for each cylinder, the rings are laid out for installation on the pistons and rods, and installed on each piston respectively.

Joe Torres lowers the crankshaft onto the journals.

While Luis was installing the rings, Joe Torres was installing the main bearings and crankshaft. Dirt is an engine�s worse enemy, so Joe�s first task was to ensure that the bearings and bearing bores were totally clean. Installing the bearing halves with the grooves into the block and applying a liberal coat of Royal Purple Assembly Lubrication to the bearing halves, the rear main oil seal was place into position.

Be sure to use a heavy dose of quality assembly lube, like Royal Purple Max-Tuff.

Joe then lowered the crankshaft into the block. He repeated the same process for the bearing caps and bearing shells, which were cleaned before assembling the bearings into the caps. After coating the bearings with another liberal dose of assembly lube, the Torres brothers began installing the bearing caps on the block. Ours was a four-bolt main bearing block, with each bearing cap held into place by two short bolts and two longer bolts.

Joe reminded us to make sure that the bearing cap was fully seated into the notch on the block by tapping it into place with a plastic or rubber mallet. Assembling the caps into the block starting with the center cap and working outward, Torres torqued the two longer bolts to 75 foot pounds and the shorter bolts to 65 foot pounds, using a torquing pattern similar to the pattern used to torque an intake manifold.

Joe then lowered the crankshaft into the block and repeated the same process for the bearing caps and bearing shells, which were cleaned before assembling the bearings into the caps. After coating the bearings with another liberal dose of assembly lube, the Torres brothers began installing the bearing caps on the block. Ours was a four-bolt main bearing block, with each bearing cap held into place by two short bolts and two longer bolts.

Joe reminded us to make sure the bearing cap was fully seated into the notch on the block by tapping it into place with a plastic or rubber mallet. Assembling the caps into the block, starting with the center cap and working outward, Torres torqued the two longer bolts to 75 foot pounds and the shorter bolts to 65 foot pounds using a torquing pattern similar to the pattern used to torque an intake manifold.

Checking the Crankshaft rotation for binding.

Once the final torque was applied to all bolts, Torres checked the movement of the crankshaft to ensure that there was no binding or tightening at any point in the crank�s revolution. "The force required to turn the crankshaft over should be no greater than the effort of pushing the counterweights with your thumb,� Luis explained. If you feel binding or extra effort is required to turn the crankshaft, you should stop and isolate the problem by loosening one cap at a time and rechecking the crank rotation. We asked about the rear main oil seal drag, and asked if there would be any noticeable binding caused by the neoprene seal. Joe responded by saying that any seal drag is virtually undetectable, providing you have used oil on the mating surface during assembly.

Installing the pistons.

With the crankshaft installed, Luis could install the piston and connecting rod assemblies in the block. Luis had numbered the top of the pistons so that he could rapidly install them without fear of putting a piston in the wrong cylinder bore. On some piston sets there is a front and back to the piston, so it is imperative that the pistons be installed according to the manufacturer's instructions. We are using flattop pistons with two valve reliefs so there's not much to worry about, but pistons that have domes and valve reliefs with a forward mark on the piston tops can get a little more complicated. Some small block Chevy motors from the '60s had offset connecting rod pins, which can cause considerable damage if they are not installed in the proper bank. Our pistons went in with no difficulty at all, so we progressed to the next stage of the engine build after making sure that the rod bolts were all torqued to 45 foot pounds (the recommended torque value for 3/8" bolts).

Torquing the connecting rod cap bolts.

Next it was time to install the brain of the engine. COMP Cams� hooked us up with a great camshaft for our engine combination. This service is offered to everyone free of charge, simply by calling their technical service line. You'll have to pay for the camshaft, but the technical expertise and advice is free. The price was right, so we took advantage of getting the right cam for our engine and application by talking to the technical service professionals for 30 minutes at a time.

Installing the camshaft requires a little finesse so that the cam bearings aren't galled when the cam is inserted into the block. Luis Torres advises mounting the camshaft sprocket on the cam before attempting to slide the cam into the bearings - this gives the installer a better grip on the front of the cam for ease of installation.

Installing the camshaft with the sprocket on makes the task easier.

COMP� includes a very good lubricant with their cams, and it is important to use it - a lot of it. The greatest danger that a camshaft will see in its life is the first five minutes of run time on a rebuild. While lubricating the journals is important, the lobes of the camshaft need to covered thoroughly.

When the camshaft is fully inserted into the block, it's a good time to check the clearance of the camshaft and timing cover. It's always a good idea to check clearance between the face of the sprocket and the timing cover - use a cam button if needed. We decided to set the cam timing at zero by using the timing marks on the timing chain sprockets.

Installing the COMP Cams� timing set.

Timing the Cam

Chevy engines use a "dot on dot" timing mark alignment system, and this works well for street stock engines. If you want your camshaft timing to be perfect, then you will want to follow the degreeing instructions with your cam. Degreeing a cam ensures that the valve operating events are precise, thereby taking advantage of all the technology that went into making the camshaft and the selection thereof. Using COMP Cams� recommended "intake centerline" timing method requires the cylinder heads to be installed, and becuase we were working with a short block, we just checked that the piston was at TDC and installed the timing set with the dot to dot marks lined up.

We starting by bringing the #1 piston to absolute top dead center, and double checking that the timing set was installed and the camshaft sprocket lined up with the crankshaft sprocket mark. We installed our degree wheel on the crankshaft snout. Using a piece of wire (or in our case a welding rod), a timing pointer was manufactured that pointed to the 0 degree mark on the degree wheel. Using a dial indicator mounted on a magnetic base, we put the dial indicator's measuring point on the top of the piston and rotated the crankshaft in both directions until the highest point of the piston was determined. This is absolute top dead center. We adjusted our degree wheel and pointer to reflect zero degree or top dead center, and from there, we checked the timing sprocket alignment marks to ensure that they were aligned.

Setting the #1 piston to absolute top dead center.

Finishing the Short Block

We wrapped up the short block build by tightening the cam sprocket bolts to 20 foot pounds, making sure that we used thread locker. Joe Torres installed the Melling oil pump with an ARP oil pump stud and torqued it to 65 foot pounds. The timing chain cover was installed with liberal use of silicone sealant, tightening the bolts down to 9 foot pounds. Use caution here, because too much torque will strip these small bolts. With the front cover on, the block was rotated upside down on the engine stand and the oil pan was installed. Follow the instructions that came with the gasket set when installing the gasket. There are usually a couple of areas where extra silicone sealant is called for. We could finally install our harmonic balancer. Luis was pretty insistent that "you should never, ever, use a hammer and beat your balancer into place." He claims that the only way to install the balancer correctly is to use a harmonic balancer installation tool, which will draw the balancer into position without damaging the face of the balancer or the snout of the crankshaft.

Wrapping up the short block build by installing the freeze plugs.

With that, our short block was ready to haul back to the OneDirt shop for compete assembly and installation in Madd Maxx. We were feeling pretty good about our drivetrain, as well as our chances for the rest of the racing season. Armed with the knowledge that we were well within the rules for our class, we set our sites on July and the next Street Stock race.

Our Top Ten Street Stock Engine Building Tips:

1 - Do your homework

Look up the casting numbers and any engine assembly and suffix codes cast into the block. These codes can give you a great deal of information when you decode them. For example, on small block Chevy 350's you may see 010 and 020 on the face of the engine block behind the timing chain cover. These numbers indicate that the block was made with one percent extra tin and two percent extra nickel. These blocks are highly desirable because the added constituents in the molten metal not only make it pour better into the casting mold, but make the cylinder barrels more durable and harder. Don't overlook any casting code!

2 - Get rid of the crud

Use a stiff bristled brush to remove all of the cast iron particles, dust and grit from every passageway. Pay attention to oil galleries, oil pressure sender hole and the main bearing oil drillings. The area where the fuel pump pushrod hole is located collects particles as well, so don't forget these often overlooked areas. The time you spend cleaning the passages will pay off in longer engine bearing life. Grit left from the machining process will kill a soft aluminum bearing quickly.

Making sure that all of these internal passageways are clean is imperative. Dirt is an engine's worst enemy.

3 - Choose the right fastener and fasten it correctly

Cylinder head studs work very well in supercharged or turbo applications and when extreme service is required. Cylinder head studs ensure even gasket crush and proper sealing in higher compression engines. Engines in a street stock class are unlikely to approach the area where the integrity of the gasket is threatened, but improperly torqued bolts can lead to a blown head gasket.

Whether you choose to use head studs or head bolts, it is important to use the proper torquing technique. Never, ever, under any circumstance, tighten a dry bolt into your engine block. The friction of the threads turning on each other will be greatly increased, causing improper torque values. The amount of effort to turn a nut on a bolt, or to turn a bolt into a threaded blind hole, is called tare torque. Without some kind of lubrication, the effort to turn a fastener is inherently much higher.

Aviation mechanics are required to measure the "nut friction" or tare torque of a fastener not under a load as it is being tightened, and add that friction value to the desired torque value to represent a more accurate final torque value. Fortunately we don't have to go to that extreme in stock applications. Using the proper lube on the fastener is all that is required. Use the list below as a guide:

Main Cap bolts and Connecting Rod bolts

Use Oil or Molylube cylinder head bolts and rocker arm screw-in studs. Use silicone sealant camshaft sprocket bolts, intake manifold bolts, flywheel / flexplate bolts and front damper bolt. Use oil exhaust manifold. Use anti-seize

Using silicone sealant on cylinder head studs for proper torque value and corrosion protection.

4 - Coatings

Another area where technology has dramatically advanced is in coatings of internal engine parts. For street stock engine applications, there are a couple of areas where we can use these high tech coatings to our advantage. There's been a lot of discussion about power gains from these coatings (which seem to be marginal), but the durability, heat reduction, ability to shed oil quickly, and longer part life associated with these coatings is well documented.

Using dry film lubricant on valve stems has shown less wear and less chance of seizing or galling in the guides. Bearings that have high tech coatings have shown the ability to withstand wear issues caused by oil pressure drop when the oil becomes aerated. Piston skirts that have been coated can significantly reduce friction and wear on the piston skirts. Many manufacturers have already incorporated high tech coatings as part of the finishing process, and it is well worth your time to investigate and purchase internal engine components that already have these coatings applied. Take advantage of this technology and your engine will live longer.

Piston coated with thermal barrier coating on top and dry film lubricant on the skirt.

5 - Piston Rings

Look for pistons that have ring groove widths of 1/16" on the top and second ring groove and the oil ring width of 3/16". The stock GM cast piston ring groove widths are cut at a wider width, which increases friction. The smaller ring widths and low tension rings are generally considered high performance ring sets. Regardless of the kind of ring set that you use, getting the right gap is important, as there is power to be gained by doing so. If the end of the rings butt up against each other when thermal expansion occurs, the ends of the rings press against and score the cylinder walls. Needless to say, power drops off dramatically. Another option to consider is Total Seal gapless rings like we used in our build. These are major power gainers and are well worth the price.

The right size piston ring grooves can improve performance.

6 - Oil Pump Drive Shaft

The stock SBC oil pump drive shaft utilizes a plastic coupler to hold the drive shaft to the oil pump. Aftermarket oil pump driveshafts use a metal coupler, which is a much stronger and more dependable piece. For circle track engine builders, the metal coupler on the oil pump drive is the only way to go - especially if you are using a high volume oil pump. However, be careful when ordering the oil pump driveshaft for an SBC 400. The 400 cubic inch small block uses an oil pump driveshaft that is milled down in the center section, to clear the wider main caps on the 400.

An oil pump driveshaft with a metal coupler is highly recommended.

7 - Oil Pan Capacity

Don't cheat yourself on lubrication! A good supply of oil to the engine is far more important than anything else associated with the operation of the powerplant. Stock small block Chevy engines come with a five quart pan, which is fine for street use but may not cut it on the track. A good seven quart oil pan with baffles and a side kick out sump for circle track racing is a necessity if you want your engine to perform well race after race. A larger oil supply will help minimize issues like aeration and pump cavitation when the car corners hard.

Oil pan capacity is important when building a bulletproof motor.

8 - Find a Good Machine Shop

This can be easier said than done. Finding a good machine shop is like discovering a gold mine, and sometimes it's a matter of trial and error. However, there are some things that you can look for that will give you an indication of the caliber of the shop.

Cleanliness is a big factor. Dirt is an engine's worst enemy, and if the machine shop is not well organized and not clean, how do you think the inside of your engine is going to look when they are finished assembling it? Finding a clean shop that has good lighting and is well organized is a step in the right direction.

Beyond that, it is a "gut feeling" situation. Inquire about the experience of the operators, but be advised that a response from the operator is likely to be like a resume - some areas may be exaggerated. Let the buyer beware.

A good, clean machine shop goes a long way in building high performance engines.

9 - Getting Connected

Floating pin or pressed in connecting rods? We used floating pin connecting rods on our build primarily for ease of assembly and disassembly. Advocates of the floating pin style connecting rods say that these rods minimize piston skirt scuffing because of the improved oiling characteristics, where the pressed in pins have limited lubrication on the ends.

Here's our recommendation: If you will be taking your engine apart often, use the floating pin connecting rods, because they are much more convenient. There is no measurable gain in performance between the two.

Floating pin connecting rods should be used when you are planning to take apart your engine regularly.

10 - Gaskets

This is an area where major advancements have taken place in the last few years, so you should take advantage of the latest developments in technology. Multi-layered and graphite composite gaskets make a huge difference when used in the right application. GM Performance Parts offer a heavy duty competition gasket that is Teflon-coated with solid wire fire rings for the SBC engines. You will need to drill steam holes in the gaskets if you are using them on SBC 400 blocks with cylinder heads that have steam holes. These gaskets work pretty well on the track, and are fairly reasonably priced. Once again, doing your homework to decide which gaskets will work best for your application is a necessity.

Copper and composite gaskets offer technological advantages over the standard stock off the shelf gaskets.

Sources:

Pro Power Performance

Web: www.propowerperf.com

Phone: (954) 491-6988

COMP Cams�

Web: www.compcams.com

Phone: (901) 795-2400

Torres Machining and Performance

Web: www.torresperformance.com

Phone: (951) 600-8256

Attached Thumbnails

Project 666: Nasty 427 Build Part 1 - The Short Block

jbarker — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 14:29:00 GMT

For naturally aspirated power it is hard to beat cubic inches. Sure, you can slap on a blower or turbo and get great boosts in torque and horsepower, however doing it with raw compressed air is much more challenging. The challenge for Project 666 was to build a power plant that could not only make 675 plus horsepower, but also be able to hold together at redline through every shift and every quarter-mile trek. Getting this kind of power out of a small block Ford based engine means you need to have big displacement, good compression, and the right list of matched components to make it all happen smoothly and reliably.

Here at Pro Power, we specialize in putting together the right combination of components to meet our customers� goals, so it was no surprise that the crew working on Project 666 contacted us right away with their needs. My years of experience working with a wide variety of small block Ford engines have given me an opportunity to peruse the aftermarket parts and choose each component specifically for any given application. For this project, we were looking to strike a good balance between displacement, RPM range, longevity, and the right horsepower and torque.

The complete engine build is going to be covered right here, so you can see every detail of the 427 build. Part one will consist of the short block build (block, crank, rods, pistons�etc.), part two will cover all of the top end parts and completion of the long block, and part three will go over the results of the chassis dyno after the engine is bolted in our Project 666 Mustang. So, let�s get started with the short block and everything I did to start our monster 427 Windsor engine!

Aluminum Dart Hits the Target

The basis for any engine project starts with the main component - the engine block. There are a lot of choices out there for blocks, but the list shortens when you are looking for good power and reliability. Dart Machinery has been manufacturing racing engine components for many years, and their line of Ford blocks is top notch. After reviewing our needs, I decided to go with their Virgin 355-T61 Aluminum block for this build.

We started with the Dart aluminum 9.500� deck bare bones block mounted on the engine stand. Specialties Machining had previously done all of the machine work, thoroughly checked the block, and removed the billet steel main caps, so it was ready for assembly. Note the Chrome-Moly main studs that come standard, as well as the threaded freeze plug holes.

The Dart block allows us to go up to 4.165� in bore and up to 4.250� in stroke, and this is important because are looking for 427 inches. Additionally, the Dart block has billet steel four-bolt caps on all five mains, which are dowel pinned and registered with the desirable 351 SVO Cleveland size of 2.750� for less friction and bearing heat. The Dart is available in 9.200� and 9.500� deck heights, to fit many different applications. With additional features such as pressed in dry sleeves, upgraded true priority main oiling, threaded freeze plugs, and coated main bearings, choosing the ultra light 93 pound block for the center of our project was virtually a no-brainer.

The Dart Aluminum block uses four-bolt billet steel caps on all five main cap positions. They are doweled for a precision alignment and held in place with studs (included from Dart), which are a great improvement over standard bolts. Ronnie noted that the mains were perfectly machined right out of the box from Dart.

I wanted to ensure that we not only had a good block for our engine project, but that it could fit the parameters of our requirements. With a naturally aspirated engine, you have to try to get the engine to breathe as easily as possible, since you aren�t forcing the air in. That means you have to think about bore size. Dart offers their blocks in two configurations for bore: 4.000� and 4.125�. This is a critical choice that must be made based on what you are trying to do with the engine. We weren�t trying to fit into any rules or keep the cubic inches low, so the 4.125� was definitely the way to go. Not only does it add cubic inches, but the large bore allows the heads to flow more air. How? Well, with a smaller bore, large valves, and a lot of lift, the edges of the valves end up very close to the cylinder wall when they are fully open. This blocks air from flowing around the valve on that side and restricts air flow. By using the larger bore, the air can move all the way around the valve head, and you can typically see about ten percent more air flow through the same head and valves with the larger bore size.

Crank it Up

Having chosen the block, I moved on to the crankshaft. I had to look at what we were doing with the engine and pick out a stroke and a crank that would work flawlessly. I have used numerous Lunati� Pro Series� crankshafts over the years, and I thought it would be a perfect fit for our naturally aspirated engine.

The Lunati� Pro Series� crank is a superior part in every way. Not only do all four rod journals have one angle lightening holes, the mains come center gun drilled. Additionally, the counterweights have Lunati's exclusive contoured wing design to direct oil around the crank at high RPM.

The Lunati� cranks are forged from the highest quality 4340 steel alloy, and have been successfully used in 1500+ horsepower engines without failure. They are made right here in the USA, and are micro-finished on the journals with extra wide radii for ultimate strength. The Pro Series crank is a perfect fit for high horsepower and/or high revving engines, and really can�t be beat for finish and quality. They also feature lightening holes in all of the rod throws, so they can easily spin up to maximum RPM.

Lunati� offers these cranks in several choices of stroke: 3.500�, 3.625�, 3.750�, 3.900�, and 4.000�. After looking over the choices, I decided that the big boy, four inches of stroke, was best suited for this project. With the 9.500� deck height and a reasonable rod length, there was plenty of room to fit a reasonable piston compression height that would not be too unstable at high RPM. That put our cubic inches right at 427, which was perfect.

The crankshaft is designed with the matching 2.750� Cleveland sized main journals, and uses typical industry standard 2.100� large journal Chevy throws, giving us a lot of options for connecting rods.

The Lunati� crank is also designed to be internally balanced, which is perfect for a high horsepower engine. OEM Ford engines are designed to be externally balanced from the factory - that�s where all of the counterweights are on the balancer and flywheel. However, it's not really a good idea in a higher performance environment, as the weights are way out at the ends of the crank, adding extra flex and wear on the front snout and rear journal. The Lunati� crank has all of the extra material built into the counterweights, so the weight is distributed evenly throughout. This helps stability in the crank and provides for better bearing durability.

Making the Right Connection

The rods were next on the agenda. I wanted to make sure that we could design the pistons to work correctly within the deck height and utilize the 4.000� stroke, so I had to run some calculations. I needed to see what piston we would come up with so I could pick a rod length based on all of the numbers.

First, I had to consider the crankshaft itself. Most cranks are designed with counterweights to clear a specific minimum rod length, and the Lunati� crank was set up to clear a minimum length of 6.125�. That meant I could use any Small Block Chevy rods in popular lengths 6.125� or longer, including: 6.200�, 6.250�, or 6.300�.

Next, I had to consider the piston and think of all the variables: valve relief depth, skirt length, room for rings, etc.. I have learned from previous experience that a compression height around 1.350� typically works best for big cams and ring room. I calculated that on a 9.500� deck height, with 4.000� stroke and a 1.350� height for pistons, a 6.125� rod would work beautifully.

For maximum naturally aspirated power and less rotating mass, we used this really trick set of Lunati� 4340 Fully Machined Superlight rods. They weigh in at a very light 609 grams and have small block Chevy dimensions to fit our Lunati� crank. These rods resist pulling apart because Lunati� uses 7/16" ARP2000 material rod bolts, instead of the 8740 bolts typically found in most aftermarket rods.

So, now I knew that we were looking for a 6.125� Chevy connecting rod for a street driven, naturally aspirated, high revving, high compression engine. Again, I looked no further than Lunati� and their 4340 Superlight I-Beam connecting rods. The rods are great for power, since they are forged and machined here in the USA from aircraft grade 4340 steel. They are shot-peened, individually magnafluxed, and bolted together with extremely strong ARP cap screws. Since we were going to drive this car on the street, we had to stay away from aluminum rods, yet we needed a rod that could hold up to the RPM and horsepower of our nasty 427. Plus, these rods barely tipped the scales at 609 grams, which meant less weight our crank had to spin at 7500 RPM's.

Slugging it Out

I always prefer to have the exact piston for the job. This means that I can�t simply open up a catalog and pick one out, especially when looking for compression, low drag, and durability. Therefore, custom pistons are the way to go. I know a lot of people are afraid of custom pistons, but I am here to tell you they are not scary at all. In fact, I think just about every engine should have custom pistons. It just makes more sense, because each engine is unique in its application and uses, and should be optimized for power. Custom pistons allow you to tailor the piston to your needs and they typically take only a few weeks to make.

For high quality pistons, I turned to none other than the legendary JE Pistons. JE offers custom pistons, just what we needed for our 427, so I went over the specs with them to build the best piston possible. They offer pistons in any dome, dish, or valve relief configuration, you just need to have all of the information handy when you are ready to place your order. Quite often, these specs will be provided by the engine builder, or in this case, the engine designer.

Fortunately, when you need a specific piston for a special engine, you can turn to JE Pistons for a custom forged 2618 piston made exactly how you need it. These pistons have the small .070" dome for our desired compression ratio, in addition to a lot of unique features. The ring grooves were machined for our low tension 1.2mm top, 1.2mm second, and 3mm oil JE rings, and we had them add in lateral gas ports to allow more pressure to help seal the top rings. The valve pockets were machined to our cam and head specs, and with weight in mind, these came in at a very light 470 grams.

Because I had already done all of the legwork, I had the information needed to give JE the proper numbers to build our special pistons. We needed a 4.125� bore. The compression height of our piston would come out to 1.365�, which puts our piston .010� in the hole. Although a max effort engine would probably be zero deck, I prefer a little cushion when building custom pistons. That way, if we need to deck the block, the pistons are still usable. The Lunati� rods use the standard .927� pin, so I chose the 52 series JE pins, and because we had a big bore, went with the 2.750� length for better pin engagement. These would be held in the piston with the standard double spirolox.

Our JE pistons are equipped with double spirolox, to retain the pins in the pin bores for a full floating piston and rod arrangement. After sliding the pin through the rod and the piston, the clips are installed. Ronnie showed us that the trick to putting these in, is to stretch them out and then wind them into the grooves slowly and carefully.

As far as compression ratio goes, I knew we needed to be around 13.5:1. We wanted this engine to be able to rev and breathe at high RPM's, so that meant we needed some compression. With the Trickflow heads we would be using, JE calculated that we needed a small dome, about .070� tall. Giving them cam specs and valve sizes also allowed them to put the proper valve reliefs in the pistons, so we wouldn�t have an issue. At this point, I had not picked out a cam, but I had a general idea of the specs, and I typically guess larger when giving specs for valve reliefs. I knew that we would be somewhere around 270 @ .050� and .700� lift, so I told JE we would be using a cam 285 @ .050� with .770� lift. This is something I always do on custom pistons, to ensure that the valve reliefs are not only deep enough, but can also accommodate a larger camshaft down the road.

The pistons were then designed for our naturally aspirated engine by the JE engineers. That meant that the ring lands were a little tighter and higher than a boosted engine, with the top land coming out at .200�, the second at .150�, and the third with a thickness of .080�. The pistons also came out pretty light, weighing in at 470 grams, and were clearanced at .005� on the skirts.

Sealing the Deal

Rings would be a very important issue in this engine. I wanted to make sure we had rings that would hold in the compression and reduce drag, so I picked out a trick set of rings from JE that I have used in the past. The rings are thin for less weight and lower resistance at 1.2mm width top, 1.2mm second, and 3mm oil. The top ring is a steel chrome that has great sealing and wear. That, coupled with the latest 3mm oil ring design, would maximize our power for the Windsor.

For bolting everything together in our engine, we simply pulled out our ARP catalog. ARP makes a wide variety of fasteners for most common engine builds. Our 427 is held together with ARP oil pump bolts, timing cover bolts, cam bolt, oil pan bolts, and they even make a heavy duty oil pump shaft.

Some Assembly Required

At this point, I contacted Ronnie Wilson at Specialties Machining in Pompano Beach, Florida about screwing our package together. Ronnie has been building engines for over twenty years and is very familiar with high horsepower Fords. You may recognize his name from all of the Fun Ford Weekend Championships that he has collected over the years, racing his Ford powered Mustang.

Ronnie was excited about the project, and Specialties Machining has all of the equipment necessary for getting the job done correctly. They have the machines for boring and honing, measuring tools, and Ronnie hand assembles each engine that leaves the shop. They also do all of their own balancing in-house, and have plenty of experience working with aluminum blocks like the Dart that we were using for this engine.

Ronnie got the Dart aluminum block and was impressed with its finish and quality. After setting the sleeves according to Dart�s instructions, he checked all of the block's dimensions and found them to be perfect. The line hone was on the money, the lifter bores were properly sized - all that he needed to do was finish hone the sleeves to 4.125� with the proper stones for our steel rings.

Designing the Perfect Beastly Cam

While Ronnie was working on machining the block, I got to my computer and started designing the camshaft. This is a crucial decision and should not be left to an amateur. Typically, if you are using a blower or turbocharger, the camshaft design can be a little forgiving. The boost tends to make up any slight errors you may have made in design. However, since our goal is to make a lot of power naturally aspirated, the camshaft has to be perfect in every way.

Many factors came into play in choosing the camshaft. We were originally thinking hydraulic roller, but after looking at the complete engine, a mechanical roller would be the better choice without too many down sides. The solid lifter would allow us to rev the engine up to 7500 RPM's and make more torque and horsepower throughout the usable RPM range.

This is what a big COMP Cams� mechanical roller camshaft looks like. The lobes are aggressive and rounded for maximum �area under the curve.� The roller lifters allow the lobes to open the valves and reach higher lifts faster, moving more air in and out of the engine. A nice feature on the COMP Cams� billet cores is the pre-drilled dual dowel holes. These are really necessary when you are running extreme spring pressure and don�t want the timing set to try to break the weaker single dowel pin. The best part? This cam was custom made right in the COMP Cams� factory in just a few days.

Cylinder pressure plays a big role in deciding the cam specs, so with 13.5:1 compression, I could choose some pretty good sized lobes to reach our RPM goal, without losing too much pressure in the bores. Also, the heads we would be using, (Trickflow high ports that will be covered in part two), would flow air up to .700� lift, so I wanted to make sure that we had a good amount of lift to use all of the available airflow.

COMP Cams� has an extensive list of lobe designs to choose from and an excellent history of providing custom cams in a timely fashion. After studying their lobe list, I settled on the designs we would need for this engine. The intake lobe would come out with 272 degrees of duration at .050� lift with a .435� lobe lift. The exhaust lobe would be slightly larger, at 279 degrees at .050� with a lobe lift number of .420�. That would give us a net lift with a 1.6 rocker ratio of .696� intake and .672� on the exhaust. The lobe separation would be put right at 112, to give us a little broader RPM range and flat torque curve. The cam would be ground on a billet blank right at COMP� on standard sized journals, as the Dart block was set up to use regular sized cam bearings. This cam would work well with our intended stick shift setup and give us peak power at the desired 7500 RPM range.

The roller thrust plate from COMP Cams� is what we use for all higher RPM roller cammed engines. The needle bearing rollers reduce friction, and it is a more durable upgrade from the cast piece that Ford uses.

Bearing the Load

With the cam in hand, Ronnie Wilson was able to dry assemble the engine and check all of the clearances. I provided him with our preferred bearings of choice, which were made by King. King manufactures high performance bearings made from Alecular, which I have found to be a superior choice over familiar tri-metal bearings. The Alecular material is embeddable, holds up to higher heat, and they are precision matched for clearance.

Ronnie snapped the King bearings into the block and then carefully dropped in the crank. He then assembled the pistons and rods to slip them into the block. It turns out that the rod and main bearing clearances were perfect on the Lunati� crank with standard bearings, even though King offers a variety of extra clearance and tighter bearings on the shelf.

Ronnie has installed all of the rings. After assembling all eight connecting rods onto the JE pistons, Ronnie sets them up on his bench and gets them ready to go into the short block. Here, he has already snapped the King High Performance bearings into place in the rod and cap, and indexed the dome on the pistons to align correctly with the chamfer on the rods. (The chamfered side goes toward the radius of the crank journal.)

Highest Level of Clearance

With the pistons and rods loosely in the bores, Ronnie went ahead and checked for interference with the block, piston to crank, and oil pump assembly. Some minor grinding was required to clearance the block and the oil pump, then Ronnie could move on to checking the valve reliefs and dome fitment.

Even though we aren�t covering the top end in this story, the heads were required for finishing up the short block. Ronnie slipped the heads into place with the timing set and cam in the block. Before getting too far, Ronnie noticed that the heads were hitting on the domes a little, so he marked the heads and the domes in order to modify them prior to balancing.

Before Ronnie was ready to assemble, all clearances and specs were triple-checked. Ronnie laid the main bearings in the bare block and rested the crank into place. It is a good idea to "dry assemble" an engine before you do any final balancing or assembly. A whole list of necessary modifications may come up: Switching bearings for less or more clearance, polishing the crankshaft, machining the counterweights or pistons for clearance, dome modifications, oil pump clearance, block clearance, etc.. By doing a dry assemble, you make the changes before you balance the rotating assembly. Fortunately for Ronnie, this engine only needed minor clearancing.

Ronnie then mocked up the lifter, pushrod, and rocker assembly to check piston to valve clearance. JE and I had done a good job with the valve reliefs, because Ronnie noted that we had �miles� of clearance. This is a good thing, in case we ever want to up the rocker ratio or go to a larger camshaft. If the valves had not had enough clearance, Ronnie would have had to flycut the pistons for minimum clearance - that�s why you do the dry mock up before assembly and balancing. However, in this case, Ronnie could just move on with minimal clearancing on the pistons.

After checking all of the clearances and modifying everything, the rotating assembly was chucked up into Specialties Machining's balancing machine. Ronnie was happy to report that the crank internally balanced beautifully, with no major work required.

The Right to Assemble

With the block honed and clearanced, the oil pump machined, and the domes of the pistons massaged, Ronnie could now start assembling the engine. The rings were oversized by about .002� and Ronnie went ahead and filed them to the proper end gaps for our naturally aspirated engine. With the crank back in place and torqued, he went ahead and laid the engine on its side (which he prefers) to start dropping in the pistons and rods.

The rings are squeezed by a ring compressor for installation into the bores, then the rod caps are torqued to spec around the crank journals. Note that the Lunati rods use a stronger 7/16� diameter ARP2000 material cap screw design, rather than the OEM style bolt and nut assembly. Following the manufacturer's torquing instructions with a high quality torque wrench and proper lubricant is mandatory for this step.

After tightening all of the cap screws on our Lunati� rods, Ronnie slid the camshaft in and retained it in the Dart aluminum block with a COMP Cams� roller thrust plate. The timing chain was then slipped on so Ronnie could degree the camshaft into place. The cam was pretty close right out of the box, so Ronnie was able to quickly dial it into proper phasing. In order to do this, he used a deck bridge and dial indicators to note the opening and closing events on the cam lobes. It is always critical for your engine builder to have the right tools when building a high performance street or racing engine.

At this stage, the 427 is starting to look nasty! The JE domes are filling the holes in the block and the camshaft and crankshaft are in time with each other. There are only a few more items left to bolt on before the short block is complete. Then it's on to the upper end air flow items in part two!

Now that the cam was degreed, Ronnie bolted on our brand new timing cover with the timing cover gaskets and seal already pressed in. The TCI� balancer could now be installed onto the snout of the crankshaft. We chose the TCI� Rattler� to get the ultimate in dampening quality for this project, and it was designed for our internally balanced rotating assembly. TCI� also makes a precision billet timing pointer that we bolted onto the front cover so we could time the engine accurately.

Next, we bolted the Melling Select High Volume Oil Pump onto the main cap. The Melling Select pump is very popular here at Pro Power for wet sump applications. It features a geroter set assembled to an extended drive shaft, allowing for additional support in the cover for high RPM engines. The housing and cover are fully CNC machined here in the USA and the pump is phosphate coated for corrosion resistance. The best part about the Melling Select pump is the adjustable pressure relief valve that allows the engine builder to adjust the pressure to where it needs to be.

A Melling Select high performance oil pump will keep the lubrication flowing around the 427. This is the best choice for a wet sump application because the pump has all the improvements for high rpm and severe environments. The pump also includes an adjustable bypass so you can set the pressure where you need it. ARP bolts hold it firmly to the block and to make sure we don�t twist the shaft we dropped in a heavy duty ARP unit.

We used ARP fasteners throughout the short block to bolt everything together. ARP makes bolts for the oil pump, camshaft, balancer, and timing cover. Additionally, we used their heavy duty oil pump drive shaft on the Melling pump to ensure that no twisting would occur under high loads and RPM.

Pro Power's shelves are stocked with the best gaskets, so sealing everything together was easy. We have a special Viton one-piece rear seal that was installed in the back of the engine, and a Felpro timing cover gasket set was used on the front.

Keeping the crankshaft vibration down is a big job, but not for the TCI� Rattler�. It was designed for high RPM and racing duty like our 427 will see, and will be perfectly timed with TCI�s billet timing pointer made just for Fords. The TCI� billet pointer came with all of the correct spacers and bolts to mount up to our aluminum timing cover. It looks nice, too!

That�s it! The short block was now complete and we were ready to start getting the top end and valvetrain installed to complete the engine. Look for part two of this story to cover the Trickflow heads, COMP Cams� valve train, as well as the intake that will all supply the air to feed the 427 cubic inches. When we get it all together and back to the Power TV shop, the engine will be completely tuned on the chassis dyno to see how we did. We'll write that up in part three of Project 666�s engine build up.

It is finally complete! Since we had all of the right parts, the short block was really fairly easy to put together. Because we had not yet decided on an oil pan, we left it for when the engine gets installed into project 666. Look for part two of the 427 build to see the TrickFlow heads and valvetrain parts finish out the long block.

For our short block parts list, with part numbers please refer to the list below:

� Dart Aluminum Block � 31345235

� Lunati� Crankshaft � IOC11EN

� Lunati� Connecting Rods � 6125FML

� JE Custom Pistons � CUSTOM

� JE Piston Pins � 927-2750-15-52S

� JE Spirolox � 927-042-CS

� JE Rings � JG3308-4125-2

� King Rod Bearings � CR848HP - STD

� King Main Bearings � MB5169HP � STD

� COMP Cams� Custom Camshaft � FW4137/4049 SR112

� COMP Cams� Timing Set � 7138

� COMP Cams� Thrust Plate � 3120TB

� TCI� Balancer � 870010

� TCI� Timing Pointer � 871007

� Pro Power Timing Cover � TC351E

� Felpro Timing Cover Gaskets � TCS45449

� Pro Power Rear Seal � RMS-351WL

� ARP Oil Pump Shaft � 154-7901

� ARP Camshaft Bolt � 255-1001

� ARP Oil Pump Bolts � 150-6902

� Melling Oil Pump - 10833

Sources:

ARP

Phone: 800.826.3045

www.arp-bolts.com

COMP Cams�

Phone: 800.999.0853

www.compcams.com

Dart Machinery

Phone: 248.362.1188

www.dartheads.com

JE Pistons

Phone: 714.898.9764

www.jepistons.com

King Bearings

Phone: 973.857.0705

www.kingbearings.com

Lunati�

Phone: 662.892.1500

www.lunatipower.com

ProPower Performance Parts

Phone: 954.491.6988

www.propowerparts.com

Specialties Machining

Phone: 954.942.5202

www.specialtiesmachining.com

TCI� Automotive

Phone: 662.224.8972

www.tciauto.com

Story courtesy of StreetLegalTV.com

Attached Thumbnails

Brothers In Rocker Arms - Ultra-Gold Aluminum LS Rocker Install

CPG Marketing — Tue, 04 Aug 2009 23:27:21 GMT

Ultra Gold� Aluminum Rocker Swap Gives Derek Dewey�s LS1 A Big Push In HP

Derek Dewey and older brother Rich Smith of the COMP Performance Group� have been performance junkies since the day that each of them were born. Both from Midland, Michigan, Derek and Rich grew up with an admiration for Small Block Chevy horsepower. Derek, having come from a newer generation, began to develop a new obsession � the GM LS engine.

[IMGLFT=Derek Dewey's 2001 Chevy Camaro]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/camarophotoshoot_21.jpg[/IMGLFT][IMGRT=COMP� Ultra-Gold� Aluminum Rocker Arms]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/19024-16.jpg[/IMGRT]

A year ago, Derek got himself a 2000 Chevy Camaro Z28. In less than 3 days, he was buying upgrades for the car�s power train. With brother Rich working in COMP Cams� Research & Development and Derek himself a member of the CPG marketing team, the two decided that the next performance upgrade for the LS1 engine would be to swap out the factory rocker arms for a new set of COMP� Ultra-Gold� Aluminum Rocker Arms.

The 2000 Z28 was strapped to the chassis dyno and made 3 baselines runs that averaged out to 333 rear wheel horsepower. The engine was then allowed to cool. Once cooled down, Derek and Rich swapped out the stock LS1 rocker arms with the new COMP Cams� Ultra-Gold� Aluminum Rollers (1.72 ratio). To complement the rocker swap with added durability, the stock LS1 pushrods were replaced with a set of much stronger COMP Cams� Hi-Tech� Pushrods (5/16�, 7.400� length, .105� wall). Derek�s brother, Rich, was able to help him with the installation, as he had recently installed the Ultra-Gold� Rocker Arms in his GM LQ9-powered 2001 S-10 pickup.

[IMGLFT=The results of the rocker swap in Derek's LS1.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/Derek%20Ultra%20gold%20rockers.jpg[/IMGLFT][IMGRT=The results of the rocker swap in Rich's LQ9.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/Rich%20Ultra%20gold%20rockers.jpg[/IMGRT]

The resulting power from the dyno test was 344 rear wheel HP � an 11 horsepower gain! Older brother Rich experienced even bigger gains than would be witnessed with this already impressive LS1 rocker arm swap. Regardless of the engine type, Ultra-Gold� Aluminum Rocker Arms from COMP Cams� are a proven performer.

[IMGLFT=First, the negative cable from the battery needs to be removed and the

spark plug wires are removed from the coils on both sides. The wiring

harness connector is also removed from the coil packs.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/1.jpg[/IMGLFT][IMGRT=The 10mm bolts are taken out and coil packs are placed to the side.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/3.jpg[/IMGRT]

[IMGLFT=Now we can move on to the removal of valve covers. Using an 8mm

wrench, remove all of the bolts and pull the valve covers off to the side,

revealing the rockers.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/4.jpg[/IMGLFT][IMGRT=The 10mm rocker bolts are loosened and each one is taken out

along with its stand.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/5.jpg[/IMGRT]

[IMGLFT=Optional: Pull out each of the 16 pushrods. Carefully replace each

one with COMP� Hi-Tech� Pushrods.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/7.jpg[/IMGLFT][IMGRT=Before proceeding further, the pushrods should be double-checked,

making sure each one is properly positioned in the pushrod seat

of the rocker arm.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/9.jpg[/IMGRT]

[IMGLFT=The hex heads are then tightened down until snug. From there, the

rockers are torqued to 22 lbs./ft.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/10.jpg[/IMGLFT][IMGRT=Valve cover are then replaced and the bolts are torqued to

106 lbs./in. The coil pack connector and spark plug wires are

finally replaced.]http://www.cpgnation.com/filehost/files/8/COMP LS1 Rocker Swap/12.jpg[/IMGRT]

Source:

COMP Cams�

3406 Democrat Rd.

Memphis, TN 38118

CAM HELP�: 1-800-999-0853

www.compcams.com

Check out the COMP Cams� website!

Attached Thumbnails

408 Clevor Valve Train Upgrade & Track Results - FordMuscle.com

jbarker — Mon, 03 Aug 2009 18:12:05 GMT

In this Tech Exchange article I'm going to share my recent decision to upgrade my valve train and back it up with some before and after quarter mile track results. For those who do not know, I run my 65 Ranchero in a few of the NMRA National Series events. Last year was my first time participating and I recently won the NMRA Truck & Lightning Class at the 4th Annual Nitto Tire NMRA/NMCA Super Bowl of Street Legal Drag Racing at Joliet, IL. Winning at Joliet was an awesome personal accomplishment for me and better yet, a great validation of the valve train combination upgrade I made to my 408 Clevor just prior to the 2009 season. The following upgrade was made possible with the expert services of Scott Gunderman Performance Engines and the techs at COMP Cams�.

Story courtesy of FordMuscle.com.

Engine Profile

Before we get into the valve train upgrade here's a run down of the critical attributes of my 408 Clevor to give you the proper perspective of what I've been using to propel the Ranchero down the quarter mile.

Block - 1972 351 Windsor

Heads - 1971 351C 4V quench chamber

Intake - Offenhauser Boss 302 Tunnel Ram with adapter plates

Carburetor - 2 x 650cfm Mighty Demons

Cam - COMP Cams� Solid Roller

Ignition - All MSD Ignition, Taylor Pro Race 409 Plug wires.

Pistons - Wiseco Custom Race Pistons

Compression - 12.5:1

Rods - 6.2 Eagle H-Beam

Crank - 4340 Forged Eagle

Rockers - COMP Cams� 1.7:1 Stainless Steel

Valve Diameter - 2.190" Intake, 1.710" Exhaust

2008 Season - Old Valve Train

At the end of the 2008 season I decided to dedicate my Ranchero to the strip in order to get serious about the 2009 season. During 2008 I ran an off-the-shelf Street/Strip solid roller. My 2008 combination yielded a best of time 10.18 at 128mph, however the 2008 valve train was done at 6800RPM. My 408 Clevor was running 4V Cleveland heads so there was still more in this motor. Additionally, after adding a 5500 stall converter for 2009, low rpm were no longer practical without some real heat.

2008 Cam Selection

Lift - 650/669

Duration - 264/270 at .050"

Lobe Separation - 108 degrees

2008 Best 1/4 Mile

NMRA World Finals in Bowling Green Kentucky - 10.18 at 128mph

2009 Season - New Valve Train

For 2009, I again turned to COMP Cams� for my cam and valve train needs. The COMP Cams� tech line was very conscientious with regard to the cam selection for my application. I simply gave all engine and transmission information, rear gear ratios, tire size and intended use of my combination and was also advised on a proper a stall speed.

My engine builder, Scott Gunderman, removed the old cam and replaced it with a custom grind. We added new rockers, valve springs, moly push rods, stud girdles, and timing chain. The intention here was to hang the valves open 100 thousandths more and to add more duration in order to utilize the canted valve heads. This new valve train opened up my power range from

5500rpm to approximately 7400rpm. At Joliet, IL on July 16-17, 2009, I reaped great results after completing this cam and valve train upgrade with a personal best of 9.64 at 137mph.

2009 Cam Selection

Lift - 759/762

Duration - 275/287 at .050

Lobe Separation - 112 degrees

2009 Best 1/4 Mile

4th Annual Nitto Tire NMRA/NMCA Super Bowl of Street Legal Drag Racing at Joliet, IL - 9.64 at 137MPH

2009 Valve Train Parts List

COMP Cams� PN 35-000-9 (Camshaft)

COMP Cams� PN 838-16 (Lifters)

COMP Cams� PN 998-16 (Springs)

COMP Cams� PN 733 (Retainers)

COMP Cams� PN 614-16 (Keepers)

COMP Cams� PN 4016 (Stud Girdle)

COMP Cams� PN 1130-16 (Rockers)

COMP Cams� PN 3135KT (Timing Chain)

COMP Cams� PN 4512-16 (Rocker Studs)

Piston-to-Valve Clearance

When re-assembling the engine with the new valve train, there was no need to make room for the extra lift, the valve-to-piston clearance was set to be able to upgrade initially.

Addressing Nitrous

With the new cam & valve train upgrade, I still spray a 175 shot of

Nitrous Oxide. At this time, I have added a NGK o2 sensor that will be used to calibrate and monitor the air fuel mixture.

Air/Fuel mixture is very critical to the operation of a high compression engine using Nitrous Oxide. I am using Autolite AR133 sparkplugs as my Nitrous Plug. The AR133 Autolite Racing plug features a cut-back electrode and is the same heat range the NGK#8, but $1.00 less on the price of each plug. Remember, when using Nitrous Oxide you must decrease the heat range of your plugs at least 2 steps.

In the Shop

Here are a few shots of the 408 Clevor getting redressed with the new valve train parts. Starting off with the big ol' solid roller.

Cam Degree Wheel

Valve Spring Micrometer

Double Roller Timing Chain

Piston-to-Valve Cearance is good to go

Stud Girdles and 1.7 Stainless Steel Roller Rockers

The Notorious Heavy Breathing 4V Intake Ports

Conclusions and Concerns

I have attained great results in completing this cam and valve train upgrade. This combo was a homerun! However, the increased lift of this cam has also increased my valve spring pressure. The valve spring pressure will need to be monitored. If one spring pressure reading drops below pre-determined measurement, I will replace all springs. After all I have achieved with this motor, it would be ignorant on my part to not attempt to prevent the dropping of a valve.

Story courtesy of FordMuscle.com.

Attached Thumbnails