ez efi help

[Webby]

I think that connecting the ECU switch wire to your old fuel pump supply will ensure that the ECU stays on whilst cranking but what about the display unit?
The system will work but the setup will be different to the instructions if the display goes off whist cranking. My EZ-EFI is so much better than a carb it is defo worth the effort.

[67springhill]

The fuel injectors are'nt shooting any fuel into the engine, I'm going to get 1 of my freinds over here to crank the engine while I put a test light on the injectors, everything else seems to be working fine.

[bluzman2004]

Here's a way to make sure all of your voltages are there when you are cranking.
1. Turn on your key and plug in the handheld. It should connect to the ECU.
2. Go to Live Data and watch the RPM.
3. Now, crank the vehicle and you should see and RPM signal on the handheld.

If the you don't get an RPM signal, then you don't have an RPM signal getting to the ECU. If don't have and RPM signal, the injectors will not fire.

If the unit disconnects and says COMM ERROR, then the voltage to the ECU was dropped while cranking.

Did you end up switching to the MSD 6AL and using the TACH OUT signal now?

[TurboNova]

The fuel injectors are'nt shooting any fuel into the engine, I'm going to get 1 of my freinds over here to crank the engine while I put a test light on the injectors, everything else seems to be working fine.

Don't use a test light on anyone's ECU. A test light should only be used for battery power and switched power. You can blow out circuitry that is sensitive. If you are testing injectors use a digital volt meter or a oscilloscope to check voltages. You can also use a timing light hooked to a plug wire and battery power but pointed to the injector. It will show you the spray pattern.

[67springhill]

I just wanted to thank all of you for your input on helping me solve the problems that I encountered with my EFI if it were'nt for you guys I would have probably lost all my hair on my big head, it turned out to be a low voltage problem that caused my injectors not to open, the way I fixed this problem was to pour some fuel into the throttle body to get my car started and then gun it so that the alternator kicked up my voltage and then my injectors opened up and my engine was a HUMMIN. I hope that in the future this will help someone else out and that I can also help you guys when you need help in certain situations...

[TurboNova]

I thought that might be the problem when you called today. Did you go get a digital volt meter? You need one in your tool box.

[67springhill]

Not yet Brian, but according to the guys at FAST I could've used my timing light but not to worry I will be investing in a digital meter soon, again thanks

[bluzman2004]

Good job getting it figured out! You would be surprised how many times an issue like that sneaks up on even the best of us. A voltmeter is a very important tool to have and pretty much any of them will work fine, too.

[67springhill]

Hey guys here's another thing that I just found out about when installing my EZ-fuel injection, you will need a "SPECIAL - ALTERNATOR" because at START UP- engines with FUEL INJECTION require HIGHER AMPERAGE output than STANDARD ALTERNATORS are able to provide -which provide high output at HIGHER RPMS, this was the reason that my injectors were not spraying at start up, I talked to a tech at Painless Performance and he schooled me on this!!!!! and if you check out there website or catalog in the ALTERNATORS section it is clearly expained. SO PASS THIS INFORMATION ON GUYS "KNOWLEDGE IS POWER"

[Webby]

Hmmm!
EFI uses some power and bigger fuel pump uses more power but that does not necessarily mean you need a new alternator unless your system was marginal before fitting the EFI. Alternator does nothing during start up and only begins to charge once engine is running (put simply). If battery did not have enough juice to fire injectors whilst cranking it either needs replacing or charging. Your local garage should be able to tell you which.