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Cam and spark plugs for my 496 EZ-2.0

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by OleBrinch, Mar 17, 2017.

  1. OleBrinch

    OleBrinch New Member

    Feb 23, 2014
    Hello fellow EZ people

    I’m trying to work out the last kinks in my EZ EFI 2.0 setup.
    I have been through many of the old posts and learned A LOT from them.
    Especially the many great answers from A A. You should have a medal for your help.

    My setup:
    1972 Corvette 454@496 with stock hood
    EZ-EFI 2.0 with FAST dual sync distributor
    MSD 6AL ignitionbox
    Eagle stroker kit with KB203-060 pistons
    Heads: Edelbrock Performer RPM
    Intake Edelbrock Performer 2-0
    Cam: Edelbrock Performer RPM Lift .560/.573 - 240/246@0,050 - 112 LSA
    Compression is unklown as I have not build the engine, but likely 10:1’ish
    The car made 545 krank hp on the dynop with performer intake

    I use RC12YC sparkplugs as pr. Edelbrocks recommendation, but I have seen talk in here that it might be to hot. What do you think of RC12YC with my setup?

    I did not choose the cam, but what is your thoughts if it?
    I also have a Edelbrock Rollin Thunder cam with lifters on my table with is it worth using that instead? I know it will make more power, but will it be more EFI friendly or will special EFI grind be way better?

    I have had problems with plugs and o2 sensor fouling up. What would be a good starting point with A/F and ignition timing? Will the wizards values work or are there better startingpoints for my setup?

    I see that manual gear might be a problem. How is that? My Corvette has the original 4 speed Muncie. What can I do to minimize the problem?

    I have had some problems with my performer intake (hood clearance) and dual plain with EFI seems to be less than perfect. I just got my hands on a Torker II intake instead. There are not many choices with a BBC Corvette with stock hood. I realy hope the EFI will like the change :)

    /Ole, Denmark
  2. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2014
    Thanks. Your installed cam/engine sounds fine and should deliver adequate vacuum for the EZ 2.0 system. The dual plane Performer intake is a likely problem causing unequal cylinder fueling. The Torker II should cure that and make tuning much easier.

    Engine timing is the first thing you should look at. You'll want to see the heat line centered on the side electrode of the plugs. Too little timing will have it toward the open end, and too much will have it toward the threads. Then, you can start some A/F changes looking at the ceramic plug insulators. If the insulators have a white, unblistered look with no splash or metallic speck deposits, you're settings are good or close. If the insulators are a light tan, you are also good or close. Tuning the A/F richer or leaner will affect the needed timing. Going leaner will need a degree or two less total timing to keep the heat line centered on the side electrode.

    The Muncie 4-spd might not be that bad of an engine tune problem for you. It doesn't seem to bother some as much as others. The problem is the EZ 2.0 has full-time adaptive learning that can't be turned off. This is always correcting the fuel maps in different shift ranges. With Sportsman and XFI 2.0, adaptive learning can be turned off - eliminating the problem.

    Some fuels and compression ratios will need a colder plug. If the ceramic on the plugs gets shiny blistered, you need a colder plug. A/F adjustments can also affect this.
  3. OleBrinch

    OleBrinch New Member

    Feb 23, 2014
    Thank you AA for your answer.

    The Torker II is getting installed this weekend, and then I will start the hunt for the perfect sparkplug. :)
    My concerns were that my cam and intake were potentially ruining my chance of success. I will keep the cam for now, and the intake is no longer a problem. I have seen many speak op problems with TPI and dualplane.

    Spring is coming to Denmark soon. There is no time to waste.

    Best regards, Ole Brinch
  4. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Jun 22, 2014
    Sounds good. With the new intake installed, you should use the Wizard first, but adjust timing for your fuel and compression next in the Advanced menu - with total advance at 28 degrees. Keep slope all-in at or above 3400 (3600-4000). From here, you'll be able to look at the plugs and tell how much total timing you can add and where to adjust your A/F to. The fuel used will make a lot of difference during tuning. Try tuning for the fuel that will be used most often. The engine may sound more mellow as you tune, but power will be improving. Don't worry with adjusting the Advanced enrichment fuel settings until after you have found the correct idle and cruise A/F numbers with some driving time.

    I like the NGK plugs for their chrome lubricant coating, and the projected tip models for street driven engines. They don't require anti-seize, and the shiny side electrode makes it easier to see the heat line at initial runs (it burns back). You may be able to use one of the projected tip race plugs. Starting with the factory heat range equivalent of the RC12YC, or one range colder, may help you find the correct timing and heat range faster. Whichever plug is used, don't change the gap from the manufacturer's setting.

    With everything adjusted correctly, using the single plane, you're going to see a better idle with improved torque throughout the entire engine RPM range, and some more horsepower. You should also be able to lower your current idle RPM for some improved throttle/engine performance.

    Note: NGK plug numbers increase with each colder heat range.
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017

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