Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by jaros44sr, Nov 12, 2012.
You are on the right track, that is the way to do it.
thanks Denis.....because of guys like you, members of the board, Brian Macy, Rich Nedbal, staff at FAST have given me the confidence to tackle this project, which has morphed into something i would have never thought possible by me.
Now i just have to clean up my harness install for the last time, and see if i can fire it up. Twelve years since this engine turned over....
hey denis, how about the b/w digital ground at B2.this is the one that originally went to the crank connector....
That will work fine.
WIN_20160825_10_41_19_Pro by James Jaros, on Flickr
so, the question is, is there a proper way to make a splice. My MAP wires are to short, connector maybe?
Your MAP sensor uses a unique 3 pin Weather pack connector that is keyed differently from the standard 3 wire weather pack so it is unlikely that you could make up a short extender cable with a female connector on one end and a male on the other. I found this out by pulling the connector out of my MAP sensor and trying to plug it in to one of the std 3 wire connectors. One option you have is to cut the existing connector off of the harness splice wires to extend the harness and install new pins and seals in the connector that goes to the sensor or add a second splice to the existing connector. There are butt connectors with attached heat shrink insulation available at Dell City https://www.delcity.net/navi?action=home&r=IS1001&mkwid=sNQAylOrs&crid=83388566909&mp_kw=dell city&mp_mt=e&gclid=CI3x2_XgkM8CFYJ8fgod0Z4Ncw that you can use with a crimping tool. I personally do not like crimp connections and I solder everything and then use heat shrink insulation on it.
An alternate approach would be to relocate your map sensor to where the plug will reach and use a hose to run it to the intake vacuum source.
Thanks Denis, for your help. Was able to pull alittle more wire through the dash, to make it fit. the blue 32 pin connector seems to be wrong, my wiring diagram shows the black/pink wire in the 11 position, but my wire is in the 10 position. Maybe I'm miscounting somehow
3 sets of 3 across the top on the connector, next one on the second row s/b 10, but my black wire needs to be 11
How do you identify the connector on a 75 corvette only air temp. sensor. I have a box full of connecters and none of them work
You said, "the blue 32 pin connector seems to be wrong, my wiring diagram shows the black/pink wire in the 11 position, but my wire is in the 10 position. Maybe I'm miscounting somehow"
Go to section 3 in the help file and look at the pin positions for connector C (the blue one) and you will see that the top row left pin is pin 10. There are 2 sets of three and one set of four pins it top row, not three sets of three as you incicated.
With regard to your last question about the air temp sensor I am do not understand what you are asking. The air temp sensor you should be using is the one that came from FAST with your kit. I seem to recall that there was a short adaptor cable that came with my kit that plugged into the main harness and went to the air temp sensor. Maybe Fastman or someone can address this. Sounds like you have the air temp sensor and no connector??? You may want to just contact FAST support and get the connector.
You are correct again my friend, if I turn the blue connector around to get your configuration, it works! two rows of 3, and the third of four....
I bought a connector and pigtail and sensor from a TPI source, but it is 75 only. the locking tab is backwards to all the metal pieces I have( do you call them connectors)? I'll reach out to fast Monday morning. Just trying to get rid of a splice at the air temp
thanks for taking the time to help me out
changing all the corrugated shielding to a split spiral wrap
working on O2 harness and fuel injection harness
Be careful with the O2 harness. You need to use the short adaptor cable with the sensor as it has some calibration resistors in it.
thanks for the heads up, thought I read that somewhere....have you used the knock sensor, what's your opinion?
I installed the knock sensor but subsequently disabled it as I just did not need it. Got 10.25 cr and AFR 195 heads and I do not get any knock with 38* advance that is full in at 3000 RPM. This is a big change from the original GM heads and the AFR 190 heads.
Denis, thanks for the reply, I'll scratch the knock sensor off my list of things to do
ok, changed this up a bit since I last posted. Installed a crank and cam senser. new timing chain cover with reluctor ring and sensor. And, drop in cam sensor, looks like a distr. but no spark plug wires
I would like to get some advice on syncing and wiring up these parts
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