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Dual Sync initial setup

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by kpanza, Jun 6, 2017.

  1. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    So, I've been reading dozens of posts and still confused. I am finally getting ready to install the EZ 2.0 system, with the Dual Sync distributor. I've got the engine at TDC (used a piston stop and new timing tape on balancer), balancer is marked for 0 (have a timing tape that has 0-60 BTDC marks). New resistor plugs are in. Swapped my cam gear off the old MSD Pro Billet dizzy to the FAST dual sync. I've read the directions included with the dizzy and the EFI book, hoping for some clarification?

    First, I was going to go with the "1 degree" reference angle...is there any reason for me to use the 50 degree reference angle? I am not a "tuner", I just want the system to run good (is on my '73 K5 that is mostly used for off roading, some occasional street cruising - this is not a hot rod!) Or because I already have ability to easily identify the 50 BTDC mark, should I go that route now?

    SO, I have repeatedly seen people on here suggesting to roll the crank back to the 30 BTDC mark and THEN putting the dual sync in with rotor pointing at #1 on the cap? But the directions from FAST say to have engine at TDC, then put in distributor with rotor pointing in "general direction" of #1 cylinder...then turn housing counterclockwise until you get the LEDs to light up, etc. (and like others have asked, finding the "leading edge" of the crank signal...to me, that sounds like I'd want to lock it down at the spot JUST BEFORE the LED lights?)

    SO, which is it? The directions that come with the distributor are pretty lacking...

    I bought the engine off a fellow off roader who had just had it built, but babies came and he needed money!
    Basic specs are: 383 SBC, Trick Flow 195cc aluminum heads (Kenny Duttweiler), Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane, 9.7:1 compression, comp cams 224/230 (I can get exact cam number if needed later), etc. Also, the old plugs were gapped at .040 when I got it, so I gapped the new resistor AC delco plugs at .040 also...is that ok?

    Thank you for any help!!!
     
  2. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Follow the FAST Dual Sync instructions in the EZ EFI 2.0 manual - Dual Sync module set to 30 degrees inside the distributor. Start with plugs one heat range colder than stock for your engine. Do not change the plug gap from the plug manufacturer recommended setting. Start out using 14.3 idle A/F, 14.7 cruise A/F, with WOT at 12.7. Start with timing at 22 degrees initial, slope all-in at 4000, all-in mechanical at 28 degrees - with vacuum advance turned off.
     
  3. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Thank you AA. When you say module set to 30 degrees inside the distributor, there is only the "0" or "50" degree spots where the module can be set? Did you mean the "50" setting? I will try all the other settings when I get it set up. Thanks again.
     
  4. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Use the "0" module position. The 50 degree position is for XFI.
     
  5. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Ok, thanks!
     
  6. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    AA, you are always so helpful, and obviously have super knowledge of engines! So, was hoping you could help me with something that I think may be a problem, now that I have read some stuff about them online? And that is the distributor cam gears? As I said, the motor originally came with an MSD Pro Billet distributor, and has a Comp Cams 12-242-2 XE cam. So, to keep things happy, I was told to swap the cam gear off the MSD, and on to the new FAST dual sync 305005 I had bought with the EZ 2.0 kit. Now, having never done a gear swap off of a distributor before, I saw that I needed to remove the roll pin...no sweat! I have a full set of roll pin punches for use with my guns, easy peasy! I tapped them out, and swapped the gears. Done deal, I was happy something went easy for a change. But now it appears that it went "TOO EASY"? Today I read that these gears are normally a PRESS FIT, and guys drill new holes since it is so hard to line up the old holes in the shaft. On BOTH the MSD and the brand new FAST distributor, I was able to simply rotate the gear to line up with the pin holes and reinstall the pins??? Do I have a problem? How much interference fit are they supposed to have? Sorry, I wasn't brought up in a gearhead family, have had to learn as I go with this stuff. Do I need to send it back to FAST? If one was harder to get off than the other, I'd have thought something was amiss, but after I punched out the roll pins, both cam gears came off pretty easily, and both went back on the same way?
     
  7. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Thanks. The gears are not a "press" fit - they require no machinery to change. They are just a close tolerance fit that sometimes requires a little pressure to install or remove, especially if there was any varnish or other buildup in the way. The gears should not have excessive clearance that would allow them to wobble or rock on the shaft.

    It's best to always use a new gear and not one that has been used on another distributor. Your hydraulic flat tappet cam doesn't require any special drive gear. The cam is hardened cast iron. The cast iron gear, that came on your Dual Sync, is melonized for a good wear-in and would be no problem. The proper gears, lined up correctly, normally never need re-drilling for the pin. The only thing you should do is use a distributor gear lubricant with the new gear on installation, and use an engine oil with added ZDDP formula (at every oil change) to prevent excessive lobe and lifter wear.
     
  8. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Your MSD Pro Billet distributor is a good one. When possible, I just lock out the MSD advance and use the MSD Phasing rotor - then using the EZ EFI 2.0 ECU advance system.
     
  9. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Awesome! Thank you for putting my mind at ease! I did not notice any excess play or wobble, but I'll check again. I did not know the FAST gear was melonized, and I know I had read that melonized was fine for my cam, so thank you for that info! I'll swap them back then, and get some lube. What oil do you use?
     
  10. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    I use Royal Purple 15-40w synthetic - it comes with ZDDP and is diesel rated. For break-in I use 30w Mobil. I would run any good 20-50w mineral oil with ZDDP additive in your engine with the new cam gear. Synthetic is not for any break-in.
     
  11. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Ok, so don't go with Royal Purple synthetic (or similar with ZDDP) until the new distributor gear is broken in? About how many hours/miles would that be? The rest of the motor has been broken in (it was running when I bought it)...so I'll just coat the new gear with assembly lube and put it back on the FAST dist.

    I've read a lot of good and bad about the Dual Sync distributors, it sounds like you prefer the MSD with lockout over it? I just figured it was easier and would play nice with the other FAST components, is why I bought it? I guess I'll try it first, and if I experience any of the issues with it, I always have my MSD as backup...unless I'll be better off in the long run just going the MSD route in the long run?
     
  12. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    I've just run MSD distributors for many years with good luck, and some of them offer things like slip collars, dual pickups, and they are completely repairable. I even use some MSD timing computers. The Dual Sync should last well over time.

    Just don't use synthetic for the first 500 miles with the new distributor. Your camshaft needs the ZDDP additive.
     
  13. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Got it! I really appreciate all your help! Hopefully I can make some more progress installing the system this weekend and be ready for startup soon! It's been a LONG project, but will be worth it!
     
  14. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    AA, I read the section in the EZ EFI 2.0 manual about the dual sync last night again, and I think I have it understood now. I think I now understand the confusion I had between leaving the engine at TDC vs. rolling it back to 30 BTDC. Since I have NOT installed the TBI unit, nor hooked up any of the wiring (as Chevy guys, we know it's nice to have a bit of extra room way back there when installing a distributor! Especially on a 4x4 that sits way up off the ground!), it sounds to me like the second option in the instructions if for me...that is, an install for an UNPOWERED distributor. If I am right, I roll the motor back to 30 BTDC, then install the dist. I know the cap has the #1 cylinder marked with the rubber band, so before dropping in the dist, I will try to preposition the dist so that the #1 position is on the driver's side...it sounds like I need to "generally" drop the dist in so that the rotor is roughly pointing at the position where the #1 will be on the cap, right? (Or is there a specific location I am aiming for for the #1 position to be? An old diagram I have with firing orders and such shows the location for #1 on the cap to be driver's side, first position towards front of motor - roughly "11:00 o clock" if you were looking from behind steering wheel) And having marked the dist base exactly in the middle of the #1 post, I then simply turn the base to get the rotor and #1 to line up perfectly? Is that correct? This foregoes the need to use the LED lights, etc? Once I have the motor running, then I check with timing light to make sure ECU and balancer tape agree, and if not, I adjust one or the other?

    I think I have it understood, my main concern is about the placement of #1, and how close I need to get to it when I drop in the dist? I'm pretty sure that I remember a mechanic friend of mine saying that if you had the motor at TDC, you could theoretically put the #1 anywhere you wanted on the cap, you just had to line up the rotor when you did. I guess the 30 BTDC is making me doubt myself, although I know the rotor is pre-phased from FAST at that position... Sometimes I just need someone with more experience that I have to confirm! :)
     
  15. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The procedure you describe using a timing light to adjust the distributor housing should work fine. The FAST procedure is designed to make this unnecessary - by allowing final adjustment to be done using the menu timing offset adjustment. Git 'er done. :)
     
  16. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Ok, so otherwise my procedure is good to go? Exact placement of where #1 lands is up to me, and I just need to get the rotor close to that when I drop in the dist, and rotate base to line it up perfectly?
     
  17. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Yes. You may just need to rotate the distributor some to fire up.
     
  18. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Ok, so obviously the closer I can get the rotor at first drop-in, the better I'll be at fire-up? And just so I'm absolutely clear, "unpowered" means simply at time of install, correct? It will of course be powered when I hook up all the wiring and connect entire system, and this procedure will all be correct?
     
  19. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Maybe a few degrees advanced. Correct.
     
  20. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    AA, I forgot to ask you earlier...the engine has a phenolic plastic 1" carb spacer on the manifold currently...should I take that off, or any benefit to using it with the TBI?
     

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