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Dual Synch Dizzy and Fast EFI 2.0...End of my rope.

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by Oldracerjones, Jan 13, 2017.

  1. Oldracerjones

    Oldracerjones New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2016
    Need some help. I've finished the install and the first start went okay until I had to verify timing and had no degree wheel on the harmonic balancer. The engine ran but was very hot so most likely too much advance. Car overheated pretty bad so I took a break and have started again after fixing all the cooling issues. Olds 455 with dual synch distributor. We used the one deg reference angle method the first start and all the subsequent ones. Have not been able to get it to restart at all. Most I get is a big backfire through the carb module which tells me the dist is off so we redo the entire procedure in the install instructions and end up with the same result. We get TDC on #1 cyl. Verify rotor is pointing to #1 on dist cap. Instruction say rotate rotor to point towards rear of engine and since this is a GM we point it towards the rear of the car. Turn key on and rotate dist body clockwise in until I get a light which I am assuming is the cam signal. Continue rotating clockwise until I get a second light which should be the crank signal. Find the leading edge of this signal and tighten. Put cap back on, hook up neg coil wire and start calibration/start procedure. Everything goes fine until you turn the key and only get cranking back and then the backfire. After six times we tried the 30 degree method and got the same result. Fuel pressure is good.
    I'm now at the point where I am no longer confident the dist is in the right position since it has been rotated so many times. Anyone have any ideas? I would hate to backwards to the carb but am losing confidence in myself and the product.
     
  2. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Is this the EZ EFI 2.0 TBI, or the XFI 2.0?
     
  3. Oldracerjones

    Oldracerjones New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2016
    EZ EFI 2.0
     
  4. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Okay. First, check two things. Be sure you don't have a plug wire crossed, and check the MAP sensor. To check the MAP, turn the key on but don't start the engine. Looking at the handheld Master screen, the MAP reading should be + or - close to 100. (It will vary slightly due to your altitude). Backfiring can ruin the MAP, so it needs to be checked and replaced if bad.

    Next, check all vacuum plugs and hoses have complete connections, and you have no air leaks at the intake or exhaust headers. The O2 sensor can have no leaks before or after it's position. Pipes and muffler/s are required. Be sure your harness wiring is away from the distributor and away from the secondary wiring. Your ECU and Ignition box must be mounted away from each other and the ECU must be away from other vehicle wiring. The ECU must also have direct connection to the battery. The ignition box should be grounded to the block with its power connection away from the battery. Be sure all engine to chassis grounds are good.

    Now, with number one plug out, rotate your crankshaft to the number one firing stroke with your finger covering the plug hole. You'll feel the pressure build as the piston comes up on the firing stroke. Use a small plastic tool in the plug hole to feel when the piston is all the way up. Be sure to make a zero degree mark that will allow you to see and set 20 degrees BTDC later with a timing light. You might also want to make a 30 degree mark on the balancer.

    Now, the rotor is pre-phased from the factory to 30 degrees BTDC. Verify the module in the distributor is set to the 0 degree position. Turn the crank back to show 30 degrees BTDC at the balancer. Mark the distributor housing to indicate the number one plug wire. Remove the cap. The rotor should be pointing straight to this mark for the #1 plug wire. If not, either remove and reset the distributor to align the Rotor where you want it, and/or rotate the housing until the rotor points directly to the #1 sparkplug wire cap position. Put the plug back in, tighten the distributor clamp, install the cap and wires.

    Use the Wizard setup to input all the correct information and proceed, carefully following each Wizard step, with a timing light ready to see the 20 degree BTDC mark on the balancer indicator. Once you start the engine and come to the timing verification screen the timing light should show timing at the balancer to be within a degree or two of 20 degrees shown on the handheld. You can rotate the distributor so both numbers agree, or you can use the handheld to adjust the timing so both the balancer timing and the handheld timing agree at 20 degrees. Finish the Wizard setup with IAC calibration and the final TPC idle setting. This completes the initial setup. F/A maps will begin building as the car is driven. They will not build correctly with the engine idling.

    If you still need tuning help, be sure to return. You could need colder plugs, and help with other settings found in the Advanced menu.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2017
  5. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The EZ EFI 2.0 systems are very reliable. But a few things need to be adhered to beyond basic installation. Engine idle vacuum must be 10 inches or better for best performance - which means a stock or performance cam designed for good idle vacuum or fuel injection is best. Using a dual plane intake (they only work properly with carbs) can cause uneven cylinder fueling problems for TBI, and a single plane high rise will work best with the 2.0 throttle body - improving not only top end performance but low end torque and horsepower. The single plane intake also helps prevent fuel reversion that will kill the MAP sensor mounted in the throttle body.

    Since fuel mapping is constant and can't be turned off, an automatic transmission provides better all around driving performance.

    Due to fuels today, the plug heat ranges required may need to be around three ranges colder than factory plugs. The wrong heat range will invite poor fuel mapping. Too hot a range will cause pre-ignition and detonation damage if not corrected. Pre-ignition damage is a silent engine killer.

    I have two of the EZ EFI 2.0 Throttle Body systems in operation for myself. One is on an over 500 HP 406 small block Chevy and the other is on 400 HP 355 small block Chevy. Both run automatic transmissions, have 2500 stall speed converters, and have Edelbrock Victor single plane intakes. Both have cams that barely provide the minimum required vacuum, with the 355 having better vacuum due to it higher cam LSA. Both idle easily at 700 RPM, but I keep them at 750 to keep alternator voltage up and to help the constant adaptive ECU fuel mapping. They also both have excellent torque and horsepower available from idle.

    I had tried an Air Gap style dual plane on the 406 but found it caused uneven fueling, and fuel reversion that destroyed the TBI MAP in about a year of driving. A Victor Jr. intake showed me not only improved cylinder fueling, but more idle torque and power with lowered fuel reversion. Top end horsepower went from 490 to just over 500 with the intake swap. The car is also very drivable in daily street traffic. The cam is a COMP hydraulic roller - .050 duration is 230-236 with a 110 LSA. 9.5:1 compression engine.

    The 355 is in a pickup truck and is also very drivable, and runs an old Crane hydraulic flat tappet cam with Rhoads variable lifters - .050 duration is 228 with a 114 LSA. The intake is a Victor Super style intake. 9:1 compression engine.

    Setup and performance of both engines was much easier and better than using any carburetor - and I have set up Holley carbs for street and race since the 60's, including other brands and types. After seeing how well both of these engine run with TBI, using a carburetor again is out of the question. I have some old 1/4 mile Super Stock and Modified Gas cars from my younger days that will be getting Sportsman and XFI 2.0 systems. The Dominators are coming off, and I will drive them on the street after lowering the compression.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2017
  6. Oldracerjones

    Oldracerjones New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2016
    I will check and try this today. Thanks.
     
  7. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
  8. Oldracerjones

    Oldracerjones New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2016
    Well, I checked the MAP reading with the key on but engine not started. It read 0. I will order another one and swap it out. I have been working on my 62 Ford F100 restore, sorry it took so long to respond.
     
  9. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Be sure there are no bent pins on the TBI harness, and that you have a good connection at the MAP.
     

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