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EZ EFI 1.0 IDLE ISSUES & DIGITAL HANDHELD CONTROLLER PROBLEMS

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by 78 F150, Feb 21, 2018.

  1. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    I have two issues with my EZ EFI 1.0 and I need some advice.

    PROBLEM #1:

    I've had the FAST EZ EFI 1.0 on my truck since 2011 and I've always had an issue with the idle dropping way below the set rpms to the point of almost dying (sometimes it does die) and then the idle recovers. This happens when I push in the clutch and let off the gas pedal and let the motor come to an idle.

    My system came with the old style analog handheld controller. While doing some research on this issue I ran across the new digital touchscreen handheld controller that FAST came out with. Apparently it has a couple more fine tuning features that the analog controller doesn't have. So in October 2017, I bought the new digital controller in hopes I could solve this idle problem I'm having.

    So fast forward 4 months to February 2018…..I just got the new digital controller installed a couple weeks ago hoping that I could fine tune the system to solve this idle drop problem. But so far nothing I've tried or adjusted has made much difference and I'm still having the problem.

    In the instruction manual it states that to solve this problem I need adjust the IAC by opening the throttle blades to allow more air flow, which lowers the IAC count. It states to adjust the throttle blades farther open until the indicator on the graph is on the left side of the green target area on the screen. So I adjusted it until the indicator was to the farthest point to the left side of the green target area before getting into the red area and I'm still having the dropping idle problem. I've also adjusted the idle a/f ratio (clear down to 12.5), increased the cold start fuel enrichment (adding more fuel while it warms up), accel fuel, rpms, and I can't get the problem to disappear. I have had this problem from day one that I’ve owned this system back in 2011. Do you know what I need to do to resolve this idle problem?

    PROBLEM #2:

    Besides working on resolving my idle issue, I’ve suddenly ran into a problem with the new touchscreen digital handheld controller and I don’t know what is causing the problem. Four times now in the last two days the screen suddenly turned black and then a message came on the screen stating that an error has occurred and it has lost connection and that it was attempting to reconnect. Within about 5-10 seconds it reconnected and started working again. However, two out of those four times this has happened, it threw an error code and the entire EFI system went into “safe mode”, “lymph mode”, or whatever you want to call it. The engine never did die any of the times this happened, but when it went into “safe mode”, the engine lost power. I then went to the diagnostic screen to check what codes came up and everything listed on the screen had a red light indicating an error. I then hit the “clear codes” button and once the codes cleared the motor ran normal again.

    I assume if the controller lost its 12v switched power source/connection, then I wouldn’t get an error message on the screen, nor would it “reconnect”. If I would have lost the 12v switched power source, the entire EFI system would have shut off (killing the motor) because I have the pink wire (12v switched power wire) from the ECU AND the digital handheld controller connected together at the same location to the same power source. So that can’t be the issue. The only other connection there is is where the handheld controller wiring harness plugs into the ECU handheld connector plug, (the connector is pushed in all the way and is locked in with the plastic tab), and at the other end where it plugs into the handheld controller itself, which is also connected securely. So I’m at a loss as to what’s happening, why, and what to do about it.

    Do you have any idea what’s happening? Can you tell me what’s causing the handheld to loose connection and then reconnect, and also throw codes? Do I have a defective handheld controller?

    Thanks for your help.

    Lance
     
  2. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Number 1:
    Your EZ EFI 1.0 ECU needs to be returned to FAST for an update when using the new color controller. The new handheld controller is not defective.

    Number 2:
    EZ EFI systems do not work well with manual transmissions as they have no provision for turning off adaptive learning.

    Number 3:
    If your engine has the TBI system, you need to have a single plane intake. If you have a dual plane intake, fueling will be unequal to cylinders - dual plane intakes were designed for carburetor venturi and not TBI. Unequal fueling due to a dual plane intake will cause all kinds of problems. Dual plane intakes also prevent proper engine timing when using TBI EZ EFI.

    Number 4:
    It also sounds like your ECU is and has been suffering from interference problems.

    Number 5:
    If you have a large duration, low vacuum cam, the EZ EFI has a limitation requiring at least 10 inches of idle vacuum.

    Usually, when there is an excessive RPM drop with clutch pedal use, the RPM drop is due to excessive end to end crankshaft clearance caused by a worn main cap thrust bearing or crankshaft wear. The ECU adaptive learning can also cause the drop when going to neutral. But, check the crankshaft thrust clearance. I have seen many crankshafts over the years that had their thrust surfaces incorrectly ground by machine shops.

    If you hadn't already purchased the new controller, I would have advised you to purchase the new XFI Street ECU. It works with the XFI 2.0 handheld, but is setup using a computer. The XFI Street ECU can turn off adaptive learning as needed and allows custom fuel mapping - it also works well with low vacuum camshafts. The XFI Street ECU also adapts directly to your current EZ EFI wiring.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
  3. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I will contact FAST and see if they will update my ECU. I’ve heard of some guys having problems with the new digital handheld (others haven’t had any problems) and when they contact FAST for help, they pretty much get ignored by FAST. Any advice on how to deal with getting FAST to upgrade my handheld if they insist on ignoring my request? I know “the squeaky wheel gets the grease”, but if any of you have any tips on navigating through FAST to get my ECU updated, I’d appreciate the help.

    I do have an Edelbrock dual plane intake. I’ll look into seeing if I can find a single plane intake that will fit my heads (Ford 460, SCJ-A aluminum). If I’m not able to find one, would installing an open chamber 1” or 2” spacer help trick the throttle body into thinking it was sitting on a single plane intake?

    Also, do you think the dual plane intake is causing the issue of my idle dropping below the set rpm when I let off the throttle?

    There are no electrical interference issues. The IRM count is 00. I have also wrapped the yellow tach wire in the ECU wiring harness with aluminum foil and grounded it. The ECU is nowhere near any noisy electrical components either.

    Regarding vacuum, I have 18.5” of vacuum, so that shouldn’t be the cause of my idle issues.

    This motor has no more than 3000 miles on a new rebuild, but crankshaft thrust clearance could still be an issue. I’ll look into that.

    Can you advise what the difference is between the XFI and the 2.0 systems? I have other vehicles I’d like to convert to EFI and I want to buy a system that won’t have the issues I’m having with the 1.0.
     
  4. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The EZ EFI 1.0 and EZ EFI 2.0 are more suited to automatic transmission vehicles making over 10 inches of idle vacuum. The EZ EFI 2.0 adds timing control. XFI Street was designed in mind for people using EZ EFI 1.0 with manual transmissions and/or larger cams with lower idle vacuum.

    XFI Sportsman is the direct swap upgrade for EZ EFI 2.0. It works with manual or automatic and/or larger low idle vacuum cams.

    XFI 2.0 has all the bells and whistles that none of the other systems offer - it works with any engine/cam/transmission combo and can do anything modern OEM and race computers can do.

    You Edelbrock dual plane intake is a problem. A Victor series intake will allow a 700-750 idle, more low end torque and more power throughout the RPM range with a TBI system. The idle will also be smoother. The dual plane prevents using an optimized initial timing adjustment that will lower engine temperatures by cooling the exhaust. With the single plane, your engine will probably like 16-18 degrees of initial timing and idle vacuum will improve. This means you will also need your distributor total mechanical advance at no more than 18 degrees, slope should be @ 4000 RPM .

    Simply adding a spacer is of little to no benefit, and a waste of time when a proper solution that works,
    is needed.
    The dual plane certainly doesn't help the problem you have with RPMs dropping out. It is also causing unequal cylinder fueling. With a single plane intake, cylinder fueling will be equalized and the RPM problem will be lessened - possibly enough to satisfy you.

    Just because you have 000 IRMs doesn't mean you have no interference problems affecting the ECU. IRMs are only a function of ignition reliability. Interference issues often cause unnoticed problems with ECU fuel mapping.

    The update FAST does for your ECU makes improvements that surpass just making it compatible with the new handheld. All you need to do is contact them for an RMA if you purchased your system new. Should any repairs be needed, they make them free of charge.
     
  5. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    Will the EZ EFI 1.0 work in an automatic car using a dual plane intake with more than 10” of vacuum or will I still have the same idle issue problems I’m having now? I’m guessing no since it’s an automatic and the issue I have is when the RPM’s come to an idle when I push in the clutch. Is that correct? The reason I ask is because I have two 67 Mercury Cougars and two 79 Ford Broncos (all automatics) that I would like to convert to EFI eventually. These are street vehicles, not race vehicles so vacuum will not be an issue. Dual plane intake manifolds are better for low end torque and power, whereas single plane manifolds are more suited for making power and torque in the higher RPM range. Given these are not race or high RPM vehicles, I want to stay away from a single plane intake if possible, which is why I’m asking if I’ll have any problems using my 1.0 on one of these vehicles.

    My train of thought was that if the EZ EFI 1.0 would work on an automatic car with a dual plane intake (without having issues), then I am considering pulling off my EZ EFI 1.0 that I have on my 78 F150 Super Cab and installing it in one of my other vehicles. Then I would replace it with a system that will work with my dual plane intake and my 4-speed on my 78 F150; possibly the XFI Street or XFI 2.0 systems you suggested.

    However, another option would be to find a single plane manifold and pray that it solves my idle problem. If it does, then I’ll keep the EZ EFI 1.0 on my truck. However, my concern is what I mentioned earlier regarding a single plane manifold being suited for higher RPM’s.

    I guess a little background on my truck would helpful right about now. It’s a 78 F150 Super Cab 4x4, 460, Super Cobra Jet-A (SCJ-A) aluminum heads, headers, roller cam, Edelbrock dual plane intake, FAST EZ EFI 1.0, 4-speed, Gear Vendors Overdrive, 5.13 gears, 37x12.50x17 BFG A/T tires, 6" lift. I built this truck primarily for towing my 30’ travel trailer, so I want the majority of my power in the 2000-5500 rpm range. This is what concerns me about using a single plane manifold. I’m wondering if it will put the power/torque range too high for where I need it to be??? What do you think about this concern? You did mention that a Victor series intake will “allow 700-750 idle, more low end torque and power throughout the RPM range with a TBI system”. If I use a Victor single plane, won’t it raise my RPM range higher than where I want it to be even though the idle issues might be resolved? Can you clarify this thought?

    Not sure which way to go at this point. I guess my first order of business is to get FAST to update my ECU and see how the motor responds. If I still have the idle issues, then look into either swapping for a single plane manifold or removing the entire system and put it on another one of my vehicles and installing one of the XFI systems….

    One more question: Will the XFI systems work with a dual plane manifold or do virtually all of these systems require a single plane manifold. The answer to this question will help me decide which direction to go.

    You mentioned that just because my IRM count is 000, doesn’t mean I’m not having interference problems affecting the ECU. If the ECU is still having interference issues, what can I do to resolve this problem?
     
  6. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    EZ EFI TBI does not work properly with a dual plane intake. The dual plane will cause problems - regardless of anything else. Dual plane intakes were ONLY designed for carburetors. They do nothing to improve torque or power with any TBI unit. In fact, they reduce the low end torque and power a TBI unit is capable of supplying. A single plane intake RPM rating is only for carburetors. Once you replace the dual plane with a single plane intake, you'll see vast improvement using TBI. This is all why NO auto manufacturer uses a dual plane intake with their TBI systems.

    Never use a dual plane intake with TBI. You will just be asking for problems! TBI does not work the same as a carburetor - it's an all around improved performance replacement for them.

    Edelbrock has the TORKER/TORKER II series manifolds for 289 - 351 Windsor and Cleveland. They are low rise and give good hood clearance. With TBI, the main goal is only proper performance using these - not racing! Single plane intakes will NOT adversely affect any TBI system, and together they will make any carburetor look like something left over from the stone age..

    "If I use a Victor single plane, won’t it raise my RPM range higher than where I want it to be even though the idle issues might be resolved?" NO! Why would you want to restrict your engine? That's what an RPM limiter is for. The single plane will resolve all idle issues unrelated to electrical interference, software, and mechanical. The engine will only need to be properly tuned and fuel economy will also then improve.

    No TBI system should ever be used with a dual plane intake. Period. It doesn't matter who says to do it. Anyone who says use a dual plane with TBI doesn't know what they are talking about! It's been proven over and over again - even right here. Hot Rod Magazine did an article 2 years back on this using a dyno comparison! Every engine builder with real TBI experience knows better than to use a dual plane intake with TBI!

    Your camshaft determines where your engine power band will be. Other details enhance this.



     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
  7. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    Thanks for the education on the manifolds. I've been looking at different EFI kits that all the manufacturers offer and it seems all of them that provide a manifold with their kits use the single plane design like you're talking about. It would sure be beneficial to know this information about single plane vs dual plane manifolds before buying one of these EFI systems or when building a motor with plans of using EFI. Not one of these EFI manufacturers explains this important issue to their potential customers. You are the first person I’ve ever had explain this to me and more importantly, WHY I should use a single plane manifold vs a dual plane. So thank you for advice.

    So I looked at Edelbrock's single plane manifolds and they offer two different designs for my 460; the Victor & the Torker. The Victor rpm range is from 3500-8500, while the Torker is from 2500-6500. According to your explanation, the rpm ranges provided are only relevant carburetors, which is something I didn't know. Thank you for that education.

    Given the way my motor is built and the intended use, I definitely need the power and torque down lower in the rpm range, which means I’d choose the Torker over the Victor. With that in mind, I have more questions…

    Is there any correlation of RPM ranges of a given single plane manifold when using a TB EFI system? I guess what I’m asking is this: when comparing the two single plane manifolds I’m looking at (Victor & Torker), would the Victor still have a higher rpm hp & torque range than the Torker? Or is this non-existent when using TB EFI? It seems the only difference between the Victor & Torker manifolds are the height at which the carb/TB would set. The Victor is taller than the Torker, which I assume gives it the higher RPM range.

    So if I swap out my current dual plane manifold with the Torker single plane manifold, will I pick up any power and torque down low in the RPM range even though the hp/torque RPM range for the Torker is higher than my dual plane (1500-6500)? Or will I lose any hp or torque? What should I expect by switching manifolds when it comes to hp/torque?

    The reason I ask this question is because at 60 mph my engine is turning 2250 rpms (in overdrive), which is lower than the rpm range that the Torker manifold starts to make power. When asking this, I have in mind towing my trailer down the road at 2250 rpm and the engine struggling to make power because of the manifold rpm range design. I understand what you’re saying about the advertised rpm range is for carbs, but that’s why I’m asking the question if I will pick up (or loose) any hp or torque using the EFI and the Torker manifold. I’m not sure how a single vs dual plane manifold design will affect hp & torque ranges with TB EFI. Can you educate me on this?

    So when I swap manifolds to the Torker single plane, I assume I’ll solve the idle problem I’m having. I'll be buying the manifold on 3/10/18 when I get paid. But I still have the issue of the new digital handheld controller losing connection and throwing error codes. I went on the FAST website and looked at their digital handheld controller and they state on their website that ECU updates are not required when using the digital controller. But given the issues I’m having and the fact that I’ve heard of other guys having issues with their digital controllers, I find this disclaimer hard to believe. I’m going to see if I can get them to update my ECU and hopefully it will resolve this issue.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
  8. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    "Given the way my motor is built and the intended use, I definitely need the power and torque down lower in the rpm range, which means I’d choose the Torker over the Victor."

    With TBI, the power and torque will be basically the same in lower RPM ranges with either of these - so let cost be your guide. The only real benefit is one sits lower for better hood clearance. You could run the even taller Super Victor in your pickup, and you would only see slightly more power in the pulling and higher range RPMs for your cam - low end power will still remain basically the same between them.. I have the equivalent of a Super Victor on my '81 GMC. Low end torque and power are far better than the truck had with a 750 Holley and it's factory dual plane. Basically, all I did was change the intake and install the TBI - leaving the camshaft alone. The truck idles like factory, although the camshaft is a performance grind (228 duration @.050). When the engine had the Holley, you could always hear a definite engine lope, and the engine idle was very rough until the engine warmed. It also had to idle at 800.

    With the FAST TBI on my GMC, the engine idle is a smooth sounding factory idle at 700 - and sounding much like my new factory Silverado at idle. The engine in the '81 GMC makes just over 400 horsepower, and it pulls like a freight train engine from idle - easily breaking the tires loose if I give it too much throttle. I use the truck to haul diesel fuel when needed, and any time I need to haul something large and heavy. It completely outperforms the Silverado, and pulls hills easily without downshifting. The Silverado always has to downshift on the same hills. You will not lose any power anywhere using whichever single plane intake you decide to use. There are only gains to be found at all RPMs.

    All older ECUs, require updating for the new handheld. The new ECUs come with the new color handheld. Don't believe the sales hype. They still say the EZ EFI 1.0 is for all engines. It is, they just don't tell you what changes need to be made to have everything running like it should. A FAST tech tried to address some of this a while back in the first thread appearing on this forum. By the time he had said anything, most everyone here already knew all the issues and what the solutions were long before. I even came up with a simple capacitor fix for EZ EFI 2.0 handheld re-booting.
     
  9. gremlinmt

    gremlinmt Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2013
    I've come to the same conclusion about my truck. The dual plane was a mistake. I'll be replacing it as soon as I can find a warm garage to stuff the truck in. So far the digital dash in my truck has been great, it seems to work very well and gives me the tachometer I've been craving. I haven't noticed much improvement in idle quality. I called FAST before I purchased the digital dash and specifically asked if I needed to do anything before installing in. He was pretty definite that it was plug and play. So far that has been true. If it works out of the box, is there any reason to believe I'll have problems in the future?
     
  10. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    AA—So if I’ll pick up more power at all RMP’s using the single plane vs the dual plane with the TB and I’ll eliminate my idle issues…..well all I can say at this point is now you’ve got me super excited to get this manifold ordered and on my truck ASAP!!!! I’ve also had some starting issues and maybe the dual plane manifold was part to blame for this issue also, although the new digital controller helped resolve some of my starting issues.

    I’m running a Crane roller cam in my 460: 1400-5400 rpm range, duration = 278 int./286 exh., (duration @ 050 = 216 int./224 exh), lift = .556 int./.580 exh., Lobe Separation = 112. The motor has always idled very smooth, the only issue I have with idling is when I let off the gas pedal when I push in the clutch and letting the rpms come down to an idle. Once the idle recovered, it idles very smooth with no issues. Throttle response has always been good also.

    I know exactly what you mean by pulling like a train and easily breaking the tires loose. With my current EFI/dual plane manifold setup with my 30’ travel trailer hooked up, 4.56 gears & 33” tires (at the time, now I have 5.13 gears & 37” tires), and power lok limited slip rear, I had to really be careful and ease off the line at a stoplight or I’d smoke the tires not even trying to, even with the weight of the travel trailer on my bumper. When I first built the motor and was breaking it in, I accidentally snapped the pinion on my 9” (it now has a Dana 60). This motor makes monster torque, even with the dual plane manifold.

    So what do you consider an “Older ECU”? When I looked on the FAST website under the “Update” section, it states that if I have the 03 ECU program, then I have the latest update. Anything less than 03 (2010 or older) then I will need to update to the new program. I have the 03 program version, purchased in 2011. Is there a different “version” of firmware within the 03 program that needs updating? Is that the difference? Regardless, I’m still going to push them to update my ECU. I’m having issues with the new controller, so there’s an issue somewhere and I need it fixed. Correct me if I’m wrong, but doesn’t this system have a lifetime warranty? That means they should do the update for free?


    Gremlinmt—What issues are you having using the dual plane manifold? And when did you buy your EZ EFI? Did yours come with the analog handheld and you upgraded to the digital one? What program and firmware version do you have?
     
  11. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    "AA—So if I’ll pick up more power at all RMP’s using the single plane vs the dual plane with the TB and I’ll eliminate my idle issues…..well all I can say at this point is now you’ve got me super excited to get this manifold ordered and on my truck ASAP!!!! I’ve also had some starting issues and maybe the dual plane manifold was part to blame for this issue also, although the new digital controller helped resolve some of my starting issues."

    Yes. The only issue the new intake won't solve is the manual transmission issue - which may or may not be a real issue for you alongside the improvements the new single plane intake will provide. You could still have some electrical interference issues affecting fuel mapping that will need correction.

    It is possible the dual plane was responsible for some of your start issues as well. The single plane will allow you to use more initial timing - which affects vacuum and cylinder filling to improve idle torque.

    Older EZ EFI 1.0 systems were notorious for start issues - hence, FAST came out with the new controller to provide start fuel enhancements. Had you only known earlier, they also came out with the XFI Street ECU for manual transmission vehicles using the EZ EFI 1.0 systems. It would have totally solved both of these issues for you.

    "I’m running a Crane roller cam in my 460: 1400-5400 rpm range, duration = 278 int./286 exh., (duration @ 050 = 216 int./224 exh), lift = .556 int./.580 exh., Lobe Separation = 112. The motor has always idled very smooth, the only issue I have with idling is when I let off the gas pedal when I push in the clutch and letting the rpms come down to an idle. Once the idle recovered, it idles very smooth with no issues. Throttle response has always been good also."

    Yes, that is a mild cam that provides good towing power.

    "I know exactly what you mean by pulling like a train and easily breaking the tires loose. With my current EFI/dual plane manifold setup with my 30’ travel trailer hooked up, 4.56 gears & 33” tires (at the time, now I have 5.13 gears & 37” tires), and power lok limited slip rear, I had to really be careful and ease off the line at a stoplight or I’d smoke the tires not even trying to, even with the weight of the travel trailer on my bumper. When I first built the motor and was breaking it in, I accidentally snapped the pinion on my 9” (it now has a Dana 60). This motor makes monster torque, even with the dual plane manifold."

    I had similar experience before I pulled the dual plane off my '85 406 TA. The power was so strong at idle, it kept me from realizing how badly it was fueling the cylinders. That engine had to idle at 900-950 - after the swap, it idled easily at 700 with its COMP XR282HR. Engine power went up from 490 to just over 500 horsepower after the intake swap - and idle torque also went up noticeably. The 406 was my first FAST EZ EFI 2,0 build.

    "So what do you consider an “Older ECU”? When I looked on the FAST website under the “Update” section, it states that if I have the 03 ECU program, then I have the latest update. Anything less than 03 (2010 or older) then I will need to update to the new program. I have the 03 program version, purchased in 2011. Is there a different “version” of firmware within the 03 program that needs updating? Is that the difference? Regardless, I’m still going to push them to update my ECU. I’m having issues with the new controller, so there’s an issue somewhere and I need it fixed."

    They just did a new ECU firmware update late this past summer. There have also been others. They haven't put the new update on their website for people to download and install on their own. Many people overseas still need the update. But, shipping and tariffs make it easier to purchase a new ECU for them.

    "Correct me if I’m wrong, but doesn’t this system have a lifetime warranty? That means they should do the update for free?"

    Lifetime limited warranty for the original purchaser. FAST does the update and any needed repairs for free. Shipping back to you is free also. Turn around for many has been within two weeks.
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2018
  12. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2018
  13. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    So I've been browsing through different forum threads and I ran across a post where a guy was having issues with his digital handheld he's using with his FAST EZ EFI 1.0 system and he contacted a guy by the name of Chris at CPG (Comp Cams??). Chris updated this guys ECU for him, had it back to the guy in two weeks, all the while provided excellent customer service! This seems to be the exact opposite experience I've read from guys who try to contact FAST to resolve these issues. From what I understand, Comp Cams owns FAST??? So how do I go about contacting Chris at Comp Cams rather than FAST? I've looked on the Comp Cams website and I can't find a phone number to call them so I sent an e-mail on their Tech Support page in hopes I won't be ignored like I have been so far from FAST (sent an e-mail to FAST on 2/21/18 and have heard nothing yet). Any advice on who to contact; someone that will actually respond and help me resolve my ECU issue? I want to skip all the B.S. and get this issue resolved without having to kick and scream and start a big fight with them.
     
  14. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Just call the tech line at 800-999-0853. That's where I spoke to Chris the last two times while buying parts. He straightened out one of my last orders that had died due to some computer error on their end. He teaches many of the new guys there - but a few are just too thick. Remember their names when you do get Chris - you'll be doing everyone a favor. The problem with the tech line is there are often extended wait times. I went to sleep once for 45 minutes while waiting. There is no real way to speak with him unless you have his extension and go through the company operator. Even then, he may not be available. They will be open Saturday - Saturday Tech Office Hours 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. CST.
     
  15. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    Thanks for that contact info!!! I just got off the phone with Jeff at Comp Cams and explained the issue I'm having with my digital handheld (apparently Chris Ryan doesn't work in that department anymore). He was very helpful and I didn't have any issue with trying to convince him to let me send in my ECU for them to test it. In fact, he suggested I send it in along with the digital handheld controller. He created a RMA # for me and got the ball rolling. I'll be sending in the handheld and the ECU on Monday and he said it'll probably be about a 2 week turn around time (they are short staffed in that dept right now, so it's taking a little longer).

    Regarding the manifold issue....I was able to rearrange my budget so I could order the Torker II manifold now instead of waiting for payday. The manifold will be here sometime later this week. So tomorrow (Sunday) the engine teardown will begin. I'll remove my dual plane intake and ECU. While I have the intake off, I'm going to remove my SCJ-A aluminum heads and take them to the machine shop and have a steel insert (heli-coil) installed in my spark plug holes. One of my spark plug hole threads are starting to strip out so I want to have this repaired while I have the manifold off. I figured this is the perfect time to do that.

    I was really dreading making this phone call to the tech department try to get them to resolve this problem, but so far things seem to be going smooth. Now I just hope they can find the problem when they test it. It'll be just my luck that the problem doesn't rear its ugly head when they test it and they tell me nothing's wrong. I hope that's not the case. I'm hoping they find a problem and fix it. We'll see. Stay tuned....
     
  16. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    They will do the update and everything will be fine.
     
  17. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    I reviewed the RMA quote they sent me and they have listed a $891.25 charge. It was my understanding my system has a limited lifetime warranty and this work they'll be doing should be warranty work and there should be no charge. I sent an e-mail asking for clarification; waiting on a response. Do you know if they will charge me for this or not? If they're going to charge me for this, I might as well by the new XFI ECU to replace my EZ 1.0 ECU and be done with it since the digital handheld seems to have been designed to work with the XFI & 2.0 systems in the first place. Correct me if I'm wrong....
     
  18. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    You may need to show proof of purchase, but I never have needed to. I purchased my first kit from Summit and wasn't charged when it acted up and sent the ECU and handheld back. Check with them. This is probably what they charge for units that have been transferred to new owners - or what they insure everything for. The ECU alone only runs about $400 last I knew.
     
  19. 78 F150

    78 F150 Member

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2013
    Just called them back and long story short, there shouldn't be any charge. So all is good. Whew!!! I was sweating that one....LOL
     

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