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EZ-EFI 2.0 Handheld reboots when cranking.

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by Bethel McMillan, Mar 5, 2017.

  1. Bethel McMillan

    Bethel McMillan New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2014
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    I've check grounding everywhere. Body is grounded, engine block is grouned.

    The wiring is from a complete kit, Kwik wire.

    I switch the ignition on, the handeld boots up properly. But as soon as i start cranking it reboots.

    Discerning, especially since I try to reload parameters from scratch.

    I've had the system now for couple years, but it as always rebooted during startup. I have tried connecting direclty to the ECU (removed the extenstion) with no difference.
     
  2. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Check the pink ECU +12 volt ignition wire. It sounds like the switch connections or starter are affecting voltage there. A bad battery can also cause this even if the battery grounds and power wire have good connections. Also check the starter solenoid.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2017
  3. Denis

    Denis Member

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2009
    Location:
    Mendocino County, Northern Calif
    My ignition switch in my '65 Cutlass breaks the power to the 12V load on the switch during the transition between run and start as you turn the switch. This is only a momentary glitch but occasionally it glitches my ECU and the red check engine light comes on and must be reset before the car will start. If this is happening it could easily cause your handheld to reboot. Check it out with a voltmeter and see what you have.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2017
  4. Bethel McMillan

    Bethel McMillan New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2014
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    I have actually found the same thing, Denis. The pink wire carries voltage during the start cycle. However, I was on a call with Ididit about the igintion switch on my steering column. I described my setup with the tech when he mentioned the exact same problem you described. Also, since the engine won't start now, I was running through all the troubleshooting sets, I had my daughter turn the engine over so I can check the spark ( that's how far I had gotten in my troubleshooting), I noticed the fuel pressure would drop to zero. When I told the Ididit what I experience, he offered to include an updated relay which will allow the power to be remain on for .6 seconds, which allows for enough time for the ecu to engage when I cycle the key to START.

    Now I have to wait for my column to come back from Ididit. (The switch won't return from start if twisted all the over and they will replace it under warranty). They are providing the relay free of charge. I will put a Ididit decal on my car.
     
  5. Denis

    Denis Member

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2009
    Location:
    Mendocino County, Northern Calif
    It is always nice to find the problem and have a fix for it. I should put a relay on my car but have found that if I turn it to run and hesitate for a second or so and then turn to start it works fine. I get into trouble if I go straight from off to start. Then I get the red light.
     
  6. Bethel McMillan

    Bethel McMillan New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2014
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    Got my column back from Ididit along with the new magical relays. Better, much better. It actually starts. The handheld does not reboots, fuel pressure is maintained.

    Now I have to solve why I suddenly have knocking. Too loud for lifters, not so loud for rods. It will run for maybe 30 seconds then dies. It is a iron-block LS 5.3 liter, with a "normal" (Holley single-plane) intake. I'm also running the EZ-LS module to control the ignition. On subsequent attempts to start, often get a backfire though the throttle body. Ideas?
     
  7. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Sounds like you need to use the Wizard reset and input the correct user information again. Also, check the EZ-LS setup.
     
  8. Bethel McMillan

    Bethel McMillan New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2014
    Location:
    Aurora, CO
    Yeah, I did the reset. Not sure if you are referring to EZ-LS wiring/connections or wizard setup.

    The setup is default. Before I got this point, the engine was running fine. The noise was a recent development. There is also a squeaking noise which i attributed to fan belt. I removed the belt and it went away. However, in my research, I found videos of 5.3s with the same sound which the poster was claiming to be lifter noise.

    I don't know. I plan to pull the heads this weekend (no racing on TV) and check.
     
  9. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The default ignition type is "none". The Wizard ignition type should be set to EZ-LS/XIM (EZ-LS/XIM setup to EZ-LS) - along with the other asked for parameters. Start out with all-in timing at 28 degrees, slope at 3600. Check the oil, replace the oil filter and try again.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2017

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