Okay, here's what I see. It looks like you have way too much anti-seize on the threads. This will cause some misfiring - even if it isn't showing up for now. Clean all of it off - NGK recommends not using it with their plugs, as their plugs are specially coated. It takes very little anti-seize when used, and only about half the amount of a small match head when needed. 1) Keep your F/A mixes where they are for now. Check WOT is on 12.7. 2) It's hard to see the plug heat at the threads due to the excess of anti-seize - but two to three threads should be showing some carbonation after some miles. Also, the plug heat range looks decent at this point. 3) What I can see of the ceramic insulator looks good - but you don't have many miles on these plugs. I like to see accumulated pump gas additives turn the ceramic a light tan - but it takes some miles for this to occur. Looking at the ceramic, there are two basic levels - one near the top outer half of the firing end (shows idle F/A), and one deeper into the plug shell (shows cruise F/A). Coloration of both should become a light tan after some miles - and you may even see something of a slightly darker color line where they meet. But again, this takes some miles on the plugs. 4) You may also spot a .020" ring (lighter or white in color) on the ceramic near the center electrode. This shows the heat of the CD system is correct - and will show better when richer mixtures are in use. But, don't richen your mixture to find it. Your plugs are looking good for now - F/A (at least idle F/A) and plug heat range look good. 5) Timing is hard to see on your side electrode, but I think I see some of it. It looks like some of the lower RPM timing is good. But, I believe your all-in slope is too low and timing is over advancing at higher RPMs. Take slope all-in to 3600. I believe taking the total timing down to 30 degrees, with the current fuel you are using, will cool things a bit and give you better acceleration. The added slope should also help prevent any pre-ignition or detonation in the higher RPMs. This may put you dead on the money for performance, but you will need to accumulate some miles before checking the plugs again. I do believe the changes will feel better to you. As for setting the base timing, your engine may like 20 degrees with the idle trim at 5 degrees. This will give just a slight amount more of part throttle timing. I believe 30 degrees total will be your maximum timing with this engine - so, if turning on vacuum timing, you'll need to cut back the mechanical so the total of it and any vacuum timing stay at 30 degrees maximum. With your current fuel, and the look of your plugs, I don't think you'll ever need to lower total timing below 30 degrees. The addition of the vacuum timing will add a few more degrees at part throttle RPM for improved mileage. If keeping your total timing at 30 total doesn't help full throttle running, you may be able to take your timing back to a maximum of 32 - but watch carefully for any signs of pre-ignition (splash deposits on plug insulators (even very light), or any detonation signs). Check all plugs when looking for signs of splash deposits - all cylinders will not run the same temperature. Everything looks really close. Hope this helps.