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FAST dual sync new install

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by HKMustang99, May 16, 2017.

  1. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    Good news. Everything is working together. Only a little problem. With FAST dizzy, crank signal is not alive all the time and give me hard starting. i'm going to move ECU and MSD and coil to another place.
    So, since the beginning the problem was o2 sensor i suppose.
     
  2. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The position of the rotor in relation to the caps posts, will move further of dead center with them as the timing is advanced or retarded by the ECU. It's all relative.

    Good to hear the new sensor got you running.

    I notice you have your handheld covered in plastic. If you would rather not leave the handheld in an unprotected area, once you've made all settings, you can simply unplug it. Once the settings are made, the ECU doesn't require the handheld.
     
  3. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Are you sure the hard starting isn't due to the fuel mix? Your F/A is fat at 13.5. The ECU uses F/A to set starting fuel parameters. You need to lean the idle and cruise fuel parameters first.
     
  4. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    ok AA. I will change it tomorrow. but i can see that the crank signal on ecu didn't blink all the time while i crank. could you explain to me what is the difference between idle timing and the initial timing i need to crank. With HEI i use 12 BTDC. But with EZ EFI i have 20 Idle timing defaut parameter. Is that mean crank timing is 20 ?
     
  5. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The ECU initial is just idle timing. The crank timing is somewhere between 0 and the initial. Be sure your starter draw isn't excessive. That will keep the ECU and MSD from getting the power needed during cranking..
     
  6. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    I checked today while engine was cold. No start. Battery fully charged. 12.0 Volts on the dash while cranking. Crank signal ok on the ECU. I checked timing. i see that idle timing is the same as crank timing so if idle is 20 BTDC crank will be 20. So i set idle to 12 and crank is 12.
    But no start. i can hear engine want to fire but it stops. now battery is dead. yesterday it was ok because engine was hot i suppose.
    Is it normal that my injector setting is 74 lb/hr at 43 PSI ?
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
  7. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    If the battery is fully charged, the dash should be showing over 12.0 volts before the engine is cranked. Leave the initial at 20 degrees. The battery shouldn't be dying that easily if it is really good. If the battery checks good with a load tester, then you have wiring issues and possibly a bad starter switch or solenoid/starter. 74@43 PSI is the correct setting for the 2.0 TBI injectors.

    Connecting the pink +12v ECU main harness directly to the battery temporarily should allow the engine to start immediately - unless you have a bad connection somewhere between the ECU and Dual Sync/ignition box or a bad power connection somewhere at the ignition box. Remember, the ignition box also has a +12v ignition connection - connect it temporarily also to the battery with the ECU pink wire.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
  8. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    Battery is dead because of too many tries. Ok AA tomorrow i will check with switched 12v directly to the battery for ecu and msd and idle to 20. Starter is a brand new MSD so current draw is low while cranking. It is the same switched 12v going to ecu and msd. Main power for ecu and msd is connected directly to the battery. Switched 12v is coming from HEI switched 12v. Harness is also new in this pontiac as it is a complete resto.
     
    Last edited: May 27, 2017
  9. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    "...the same switched 12v going to the ecu and msd." This sounds like the problem - others follow.

    The MSD main power +12v connection should not be at the battery. Use a connection point away from the battery. The battery acts as a filter for the ECU main power - it won't filter the ECU power with the MSD +12v main power connected also to the same point at the battery.

    HEI? Fast Dual Sync gets its power from the ECU main harness wire for this.
     
  10. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    From the FAST instructions -
    "Be sure the “12V SWITCHED” wire is connected to a source that is hot with the key in the On/Run and Crank positions. Losing the 12V switched source during cranking can lead to a no start condition and other problems. The green “SW IGN” LED on the ECU indicates power on the “12V SWITCHED” wire and should stay lit during cranking."
     
  11. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    What i mean is that on the main harness you have 12v used for HEI and this 12v is hot at run and crank position. So i use it to power ecu and msd. Main wires for msd on the manual need to be connected directly to the battery. Where do you connect main power msd ?
     
  12. Pfingstl

    Pfingstl Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2016
    Location:
    Denmark
    All main power directly to the battery.
     
  13. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    Ok. I connected ecu and msd directly to the battery and after few tries engine started but only one time. I'm sure the issue is from timing pulse from dual sync distributor or somewhere. I need to be sure when i use HEI and not fast dual sync dizzy engine start every time i crank. So reverse job. Reinstall HEI and rpm module and set no timing in the ecu. How do you set initial throttle blades ?
     
  14. Pfingstl

    Pfingstl Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2016
    Location:
    Denmark
    You are doing a lot of work changing direction all the time.

    Fast and Dual Sync works great and it's not that Hard to get it working.

    I didn't adjust the throttle blade until I was going through the wizard. If it won't idle help it with the gas pedal or turn the screw as needed.

    You need to reed the instructions carefully.
     
  15. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    Yes but i read instructions carefully for sure. It is not the first time i install a fast dual sync dizzy. I have installed a XFI and Fast dizzy on my C3 without any issues. But it is the first time i have too many issues too bad. how do you explain that i have many issues with fast dizzy and not with my old HEI and the rpm module ?
     
  16. Pfingstl

    Pfingstl Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2016
    Location:
    Denmark
    Yes its odd....

    I did my dual sync install by setting I approx. to no. 1 cylinder and then a bit advanced. Starting the engine and turning dizzy until I fired and ran. Then I just set the timing to 20. That's it.
     
  17. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    I just read that i have to loop wires from unused Crank pickup and cam pickup. To avoid EMI on those wires. Is it right ?
    Edit i don't have a cam pickup wire. Only crank trigger.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2017
  18. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    No ideas ?
     
  19. Pfingstl

    Pfingstl Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2016
    Location:
    Denmark
    When you say loop do you men twist the wires? You don't mean connect the loose ends ??
     
  20. Fastnofast

    Fastnofast Member

    Joined:
    May 16, 2017
    Yes. I mean connect wires together. No twist wires. I don't understand why in the XFI instructions manual you have to ground any sensitive input as cam and crank not used and not in ez efi manual.
     

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