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Kudos to CPG re: FAST EZ EFI 1.0

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by Cre8vtv, May 7, 2017.

  1. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    I want to give a big thumbs up to the team at CPG, in particular Chris, who has been helping me with my FAST EFI 1.0, and this forum who've been lending insight as well.

    http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/threads/ez-efi-gremlin-need-help.26560/

    We've spent the last few weeks chasing a gremlin that really stumped us. While I understand its rare for the ECU to have an issue, it appears that CPG service dept infact did find one in mine after I sent it in. Keep in mind that my EZ EFI has worked flawlessly for the last 3 years, and then suddenly after what we believe was a voltage spike, the system became inoperable. WHAT DID CPG DO? Chris and team reflashed the ECU, updated the firmware, and ran the system on a test engine for an hour.... and now are returning it to me for install... NO CHARGE. ***THAT's CUSTOMER SERVICE! You've won my future business for sure. Thank you for spending the time you did on the phone with me to sleuth out the problem, and then to take the time to get it right. I'm truly impressed and grateful. Can't wait to get my Vette back on the road.
     
  2. Blown7

    Blown7 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2011
    So the bottom line was... a firmware upgrade was all the ECU needed?
     
    Cre8vtv likes this.
  3. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    It is if that was all the damage caused by the voltage spike. FAST tests each repaired ECU on a "mule", so it should be ready to run correctly when you get it back. Chris is one of the guys you can count on, but he probably only saw to it someone with FAST repaired the ECU. With that new MSD module in your distributor, you should have a trouble free start-up - once everything is back in place.
     
    Cre8vtv likes this.
  4. RussellB

    RussellB Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2016
    Glad they had you sorted. I am still awaiting on how they will rectify my ECU - has a random false lean reading that I have isolated to the ECU via a very painful and expensive process of elimination. I am thinking it may also need to be returned :(
     
    Cre8vtv likes this.
  5. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Fingers crossed! It arrives tomorrow am, and I'll be putting right in. I've double checked all wiring runs, installed the new MSD Heat Module with Tach signal, etc., etc.,... So I'm hoping all possible issues are in the clear. I'll keep everyone posted.
     
  6. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    SUCCESS! The ECU arrived, and I installed, set up a new tune and she started right up. After warm up and setting targets, I took it for a spin and it's purring like a tiger. Very happy to have this solved and thanks to all for your input and Chris at CPG for the repair. So thrilled to be back on the road again.
     
  7. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Great! Good to hear it's up and running again.
     
    Cre8vtv likes this.
  8. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Tha
    Chris at CPG told me the analysis of the ECU showed it was definitely corrupted software, showing signs of incomplete update etc... They reflashed it, and updated the firmware to current. So in short...YES! : )
     
  9. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    While I start to put miles on the ECU to build up the self tune, I do have an HEI / Timing question for the experts here: I'm currently running at High Altitude (Denver) 5200ft, a Crate GM350 with Mechanical Tach HEI & Heat Module and the FAST 1.0 EZ EFI / ECU. My current setting on the flywheel is 0 degrees TDC and all is running smoothly. However, the car has never had a huge amount Torque / HP. I'm now running an electric fan to remove fan clutch drag. ??? Should I be thinking about distributor phasing or locking out the distributor or ???? I'm getting clean firing with nothing seeming out of normal. The HEI Distributor still has active vacuum advance and the rotors centrifugal weights are fully functional. Would I get better results by locking out or does the EZ EFI 1.0 with the HEAT Digital Module already delete this and provide their own inputs? I'm simply trying to achieve the best tune to give the engine the peak tune it's capable of. Looking forward to any thoughts to help me learn more about it.
     
  10. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    You need the distributor advance, since EZ EFI 1.0 has no feature for timing, and may find more torque by increasing the initial toward 15 degrees BTDC. Every engine is different, so this could be more or less, and could also require changes to distributor slope, total timing, and vacuum advance. Phasing shouldn't be anything to worry about with your HEI.

    You want as much timing as possible without causing pre-ignition or detonation. This will improve power and mileage.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2017
    Cre8vtv likes this.
  11. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Thank you. That's helpful to hear. I will NOT lock out my distributor advance. I was studying how to do the Total Timing average. Per your note, I'll try 15 degrees BTDC.
     
  12. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Remember, depending on how many degrees of advance the distributor is set up for you could go too far with advance at higher RPMs. Just try the higher initial advance at idle and low RPMs. Use a vacuum gauge and watch for highest steady vacuum. If the vacuum becomes unsteady, back off until it steadies again. Once you find the best initial, you'll need to change the advance springs for the proper slope and limit the total mechanical advance. You may want a speed shop to do this for you. You might even be able to lock out or limit the vacuum advance in order to prevent over advancing the total timing.
     
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  13. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Very helpful. I may indeed experiment but ultimately take it to a speed shop. It would be great to truly have it set to peak performance. My gratitude.
     
  14. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The speed shop will need to know what initial timing figure you find works best at idle. With them knowing your compression, fuel, etc., a good shop can get the curve set very close. They'll mount the distributor in a machine that spins it up so they can see where the timing advance needs tweaking.
     
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  15. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Thanks... Yes, I'm working on this myself this weekend to start. I have the engine learning. I'm going to target at idle 12 degrees BTDC, figuring the mechanical vacuum adds another 10 degrees at 2000 rpm, and then do "black" (light) centrifugal springs to try and add another 12 degrees.. Total timing at 34 BTDC advance. Thoughts?
     
  16. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Thanks AA. Quick question for you. I am doing a little tweaking myself to learn before having a pro tackle it. While in the process of the first few miles, I'm having a little trouble with the car running fine during load, but when I take load off and push in the clutch to stop at a light, the rpm drops so low it sometimes stalls. Sometimes it recovers, but it obviously needs something. Should I let it learn this? Or is there a setting I should mod in the base tune? I'm currently at 750rpm idle, and have scanned the TPS since adjusting the idle screw per instructions from EZ EFI. I do have a +1 setting on the advanced menu for ACCEL. Thoughts on what I can do to help stop this stalling? I haven't reset timing yet to my plan of 12 degrees BTDC. I think I'm at 0 right now.
     
  17. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    What are your A/F idle and cruise settings? Increased timing will also help with this.

    Does it also do his if you bump the shifter out of gear without using the clutch?
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2017
  18. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Thanks AA. Here are the details. I think I have it a little steady when I recal. the TPS at 800 RPM Idle and opened the blades slightly till I was in the cal range bouncing toward the left side. Page 1 = 800 RPM - (-02 to 00) 2 C% Page 2 = 800 RPM 15-20 IAC *Very active as it tries to keep idle steady. CTS 211 TPS 00 Page 3 = 13.8 - 13.3 44 MAP 129 ATS Page 4 = 01 Load 44% 02 800 Let me know your thoughts. I am at 0 degree TDC right now and the temps are running hotter than norm which usually is around 190. I think the electric fan isn't quite as good a the cooling as the manual, but I wanted to get rid of the drag on the engine. *Yes it sometimes wants to die whenever I took load off the engine and it was to return to idle... it would go past idle and sometime couldn't recover. I'm hoping my blade adjustment and timing will help this. Waiting for it to cool a bit to set timing.
     
  19. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    One more comment on above... I've now set the idle to 14 Degrees BTDC, and my vacuum on a manual gauge is about 10 to 14.... is that too low? I've checked for leaks but not finding any...
     
  20. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Added initial timing will cool the exhaust temps and engine in the idle range. The fuel is still fat - the fuel should be more like 14.0+ @ idle and 14.7 cruise. Check the plug ceramics look good - any fouled plugs will create a problem. You need to get the idle down to 750.

    Set the timing first.
     

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