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Kudos to CPG re: FAST EZ EFI 1.0

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by Cre8vtv, May 7, 2017.

  1. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Be sure the plugs are clean. You want idle vacuum as high as possible and steady. Then slowly adjust the idle AF upward a tenth at a time to help the vacuum - giving the adaptive learning time to adjust maps. Re-adjust timing to get more vacuum. The vacuum needle will become erratic if the timing is too high. You may be able to take the initial timing to 20 or more initial degrees. Just don't try to rev the engine - higher RPMs could cause pre-ignition and detonation until the slope and distributor total advance is reset.
     
  2. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    I have found a spark jumping on one wire. I'm going to replace or shield it.
     
  3. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Leaking secondary wiring will never allow you to tune the system. As low as your base timing has been, I imagine heat has already well-cooked those plug wires.

    You should be running good spiral core wire resistance wires with sealed boots.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2017
  4. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    I will replace tomorrow. I've shielded it for now and set timing to 20 Dgrees BTDC. After re cal TPS things seem to be settling down a little. Stay tuned and thank you for your very helpful guidance. Its really appreciated as I'm learning.
    JJ
     
  5. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Changed the timing to 20 degrees BTDC as you suggested. I've moved the RPM back to 750 and re adj. the TPS and set screw to target. I'll work on the AF today..
     
  6. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    OK. I have the AF mixture at 14 for Idle and 14.7 cruise. I noted the WOT is at 12.8 and haven't touched that. Timing is at 20 BTDC and the engine seems to be idling very happy. I'm taking it out today to get it up to temp and see how it goes. Without a doubt it's happier when I give it a little punch and it returns to idle. No more dip and struggle. : )
     
  7. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Be careful with the RPMs, your total timing could be too high and cause detonation. The more you lean, the more you can get into pre-ignition and detonation until the correct distributor slope and total timing are found. With the timing right, you will have the plug side electrode and ceramic looking right - heat line centered on the side electrode. You'll get a nice light tan color to all of the inner ceramic insulator as you reach optimum F/A at idle and cruise. Again, don't go leaner than the 12.8 WOT - you may need 12.7. But, you'll determine that later.
     
  8. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Thank you. Just took it for a light drive for about 5 miles. It does start to ping at 2300 RPM under load. I stayed below that and brought it home. It seems to be finding it's idle now after some bouncing to 500's then back to 800...eventually finding 750. No stalls. I will keep the WOT at 12.8 for now as I haven't even tried that yet. Should I back down the advance to ____ ? Anything else on the computer to help compensate the change?
     
  9. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    I would leave things alone until you can get the distributor slope and total timing modified. Heavier advance springs/lighter advance weights will help the slope. But, the total advance will still need to be limited. You need the speed shop distributor service now.
     
  10. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    So I should back down the timing off 20 degrees ? I do have the light springs on the mechanical advance right now. Should I test and go 1 light and 1 media (silver) or move completely to (silver springs)? Any suggestions on a good speed shop who knows EZ EFI in Denver area?
     
  11. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    If this is an MSD distributor with an advance spring and bushing kit. Get the spec sheet and install the largest (black) bushing and the two heavy silver springs.

    I'm in Alabama, so I'm not familiar with shops in Denver.
     
  12. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    It is an MSD "Like" distributor. There is no bushing stop on the bottom of the cam that I could find. I just changed out the weights, center, and used the silver heavier springs from a new HEI Slope Advanced Tune Kit I purchased at AdvancedAuto. The car is knocking a little after accell and letting off the gas, it happens when I put a little gas into it for lightly cruising. I had a squeal under the hood and the it stopped. I suddenly noticed I lost my TACH gauge. Obviously, the new angle of the distributor housing didn't suit the cable connected gear for the mechanical tach. - - Typical : ) There's always something to repair on these cars! Otherwise, I'm thinking, I might be getting a little closer. I'm going to back down timing every so slightly to be safe until I find a capable speed shop in the area that knows EZ EFI's Let me know if you have any more thoughts.
     
  13. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The shop doesn't need to know the EZ EFI systems, just how to set up distributors like yours.

    You need the higher base timing for fuel injection, and want it optimized for highest stable vacuum with the engine at temperature. 15 degrees would be a minimum. I'm sure the two heavy springs helped. The cap usually has advance limiters that contact the weights, and there are sometimes weights, that can be found, made to hit the cap advance stops earlier. The weights need to be set so they offer the least rotor advance. If this is one that offers two different slots, you need to use the shorter slot. On some of these, you can use a small piece of tubing on the pin to further help limit advance.

    If you have vacuum advance, you should also try limiting it to less advance. Many vacuum canisters allow using an Allen head wrench for this in the vacuum tube hole. Be sure to turn the wrench in the proper direction - and don't increase the timing it offers. 2-3 turns in the proper direction should help.

    The squeal was probably just an alternator belt that needs tightening. When you can turn the engine over some with a wrench on the alternator pulley nut, without belt slippage, the belt is tight enough.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2017
  14. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Great insights and thank you. You've been so helpful through this process. I will look for a local speed shop that can do HEI distributors. I do have vac advance as well and will explore if there is a way to limit it a bit. I've seen that before. The squeal was a belt at first, which i add some slip grease to and it quieted. I did however seem to tear up the TACH gear, as my mechanical tach is no longer functioning. Perhaps time to switch to electronic... or see if I can find the parts to rebuild it.
     
  15. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Hi AGAIN AA. I have one additional question for you. I'm backing down the advance from 20 to about 16 to stop the ping on the load rpms. I have added heavier springs and lighter weights in my Performer MSD Distributor. I'm liking what I'm feeling with the car, but wondered if I have the Vacuum advance hooked up wrong. Currently I'm on the lower port on the fuel in / out side of the EZ EFI 1.0 unit. I believe that's direct manifold vac. I understand there is one port which is "PORTED" and that may be a better choice for advance and timing curve on load. Which port on the EFI unit is the ported? Is it above the blades? Is this a good idea?
     
  16. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Just feel the ports with the engine running at idle. The ported vacuum will have very little to no vacuum with the throttle closed. Using the ported vacuum may allow you to raise the initial timing some and gain some fuel mileage improvement - if ping is coming on early, as you crack the throttle. Using ported or full vacuum just depends on what the engine likes best.
     
  17. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Thank you. Can you point me to where to look on the EZ EFI 1.0 unit for the 3rd port? I see one at the base of unit on the Fuel In/Out, TPS side which is the one I'm currently tapping. There's another under injector #4 which I have capped. It's at the same base level as the one I'm tapping. So I'm thinking there's another port higher above the blades, but not seeing it?
     
  18. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    There are probably only two of these 1/8 ports. One is fulltime manifold vacuum and should be connected to your regulator. The other should be part time vacuum. Use a vacuum gauge to determine. The part time port only opens to full manifold vacuum at part throttle.
     
  19. Cre8vtv

    Cre8vtv Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2011
    Thank you. Found them. Two full time (one to regulator, one capped) One above the blades (Part Time) in front of the TPS which was connected to regulator and is now connected to my Vac Advance. Hopefully this will improve things further.
     
  20. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Having the fuel regulator correctly connected to fulltime vacuum will make a big difference. Be sure to adjust the regulator now that it is correctly on fulltime vacuum. Sounds like you are now on your way to making the final fuel air and timing adjustments for best performance.:cool:
     

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