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o2 sensor code, no start

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by waybad1, Oct 21, 2017.

  1. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    One more thing - backfiring can cause the rear throttle blades to stick open sometimes. Flip them open several times, allowing their spring to close them and free them up.
     
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  2. Pfingstl

    Pfingstl Member

    Joined:
    May 30, 2016
    Location:
    Denmark
    I did a triple reset at some point to be sure to clear the ecu completely. Isn’t that correct ?
     
  3. waybad1

    waybad1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    I have had to reset mine more then once, doesn't the reset though start off with rich settings? 13.9 I believe. Is there a way to go past the warmup screen
    I think all I really need to do is clear all the old mapping?
     
  4. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Hi Jens,

    Yes, we got your 2.0 ECU cleared with a triple reset. I had found earlier that one reset didn't always clear all the old maps on my 2.0 system. The 1.0 is similar. Working with computers, this is sometimes needed to clear computer memory.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2018
  5. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    "I think all I really need to do is clear all the old mapping? "

    Yes, the default is richer, but you can enter the A/F setting you want later in the menus (the previous corrupt maps may be richer that the handheld shows). Once you input the new A/F the ECU will try to reach to the new A/F setting.

    Yes, you need to clear all the old mapping first and start fresh.

    Here is the EZ EFI manual, page 13 is the start of using the handheld and explains everything:
    http://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/82c417_5b48559be19e47c392064633fd1ad2cd.pdf
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2018
  6. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    I think what you are asking is can you leave the Wizard before cranking. Yes, you can. Just go back to the Advanced menu to check and input the settings asked for and those you want. After warmup, you will need to use the Advanced menu to again reset the TPS and IAC.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2018
  7. waybad1

    waybad1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    I think I got it. I pulled the o2 which has like 20 miles on it and it was full of soot like the
    plugs were. I installed the original FAST one that I still had. I also completely reset everything
    twice and let it go through the warm up. I could tell it was still rich, but not like before. It did warm
    up at 13.9 idle af. I reset idle the 14.4 and cruise to 14.7 where it was running previously. I think when the errors were happening
    it killed the o2. I have not driven it yet, but this is the longest it has idled in weeks. Fingers crossed
     
  8. waybad1

    waybad1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    Also, if I have room for a spacer under the TB is it worth doing?
    Now that it is running good what would be a good starting point for timing?
    I can fix most any vehicle, but timing never was my strong point.
     
  9. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    The spacer will give a bit more plenum volume, but I doubt you'll see any real performance gains using one with your engine. It could help some with fuel reversion. But again, I doubt you have any fuel reversion problem using the new intake. So, I wouldn't bother unless I already had an open spacer just sitting around I wanted to use.

    I would set initial to at least 20 degrees. Your 282 cam should like something between 20-24 degrees on initial. Find what gives the highest idle vacuum and back off two degrees. You should then be able to bring your idle down to 700-750 - once the adaptive learning settles down building the fuel maps. The higher initial timing will also cool the exhaust manifolds. Just don't over-advance the mechanical total. You may need to increase the slope and limit the total advance.

    Tell me what distributor you have, and I should be able to help you get the timing dead on. A good MSD billet model with vacuum should be fairly easy to set up - and improve mpg.

    Sounds like you're well on your way to perfection now. :cool:
     
  10. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    You don't want much total mechanical timing with an 11:1 compression engine - unless you are using high octane race fuel. Your total mechanical timing could be anywhere from 26-32 using pump gas.
     
  11. waybad1

    waybad1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    MSD billet w/vacuum. Just by ear I moved the dist today until it sounded just right and
    my timing light said 24. I think that is too much maybe I should start with 20 and try it. It is the total
    advance I am not sure of. I always run Chevron supreme with octane boost. I know that there is a heavy and
    light spring in the dist now. Last time out at Pismo I heard some pinging at the crest of some of the dunes.
     
  12. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    This one will be easy to set up. Sounds like 22 degrees will be about perfect for the initial - going by ear. Use a vacuum gauge to confirm. You'll want to use the black timing bushing to limit total timing. You heard some pinging going on where and as I would expect. This just confirms you have some pre-ignition going on (you can't hear pre-ignition) and some plug glazing. With the following settings, the engine will run stronger and the plugs will last longer.

    For your 11.0:1 compression and Chevron Supreme (booster may no longer be needed unless you want to use mid-grade fuel):

    Use both heavy silver springs - this is the easy part

    Your distributor came with the blue advance bushing installed. So...
    The harder part: Use a small drift to remove the roll pin holding the distributor gear on. With the advance springs off, remove the blue advance stop bushing and install the black advance stop bushing MSD supplied in the distributor kit. re-install everything and time the engine. You will now be as close as you can get to optimum with this MSD Billet Vacuum distributor!

    Notes:

    You will want to use the part time vacuum port on the TBI for the distributor vacuum unless you need to go lower with the initial timing. to help with lowering the total mechanical timing.


    Do this step with the vacuum canister disconnected and the TBI vacuum port closed. Your mechanical timing advance will be about 18 degrees at about a 3600 RPM slope with the two heavy silver springs and the black advance bushing. With 22 degrees initial, this would give 40 degrees total advance. So, you need to limit the initial to 20 degrees for a total mechanical of no more than 38 degrees. A total of 34-36 may be needed, but go no lower than 16 degrees initial.

    You may need to adjust the vacuum canister to lower its advance at vacuum. If yours is not adjustable, you may need to purchase an adjustable type canister - it is a standard GM type canister.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2018
    waybad1 likes this.
  13. waybad1

    waybad1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    And to think I just had the manifold off and replaced the dist gear. I actually bought the dist from a friend so had no idea
    there were different bushings. I bought a spring kit and played with the timing. I knew I have never had it exactly
    right. I hate the dist roll pin, it seems the ones you can buy arn't as good as the msd one's. I need to get a new kit for the correct
    springs. I can't wait to feel how it runs with correct timing
     
  14. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Some of what you will notice is a sweeter exhaust note. You may even be able to feel more power accelerating. That quieter sweeter exhaust note usually fools people into thinking there is less power, but it is just the opposite. There is a nice torque benefit and the tires will bite better on asphalt under hard acceleration.

    Here's the spring and bushing kit - https://www.msdperformance.com/products/distributors/distributor_accessories/parts/8464

    The MSD gear usually comes with a new roll pin even though the old pin is still good. They may give you one if asked. I usually square off the point of a correctly sized nail to drive out roll pins - if I can't find my punch set (these days I lose tools right under my nose, and find them after they aren't needed). A nail works good but you just can't hold it as well.
     
  15. waybad1

    waybad1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    Oreilly auto parts actually ordered that kit for me this morning and it will be here at 2:00. Can't ask
    for anything better then that. I did listen to the exhaust a lot just idling yesterday. It definitely sounds
    more mellow and the fuel smell isn't as bad. You know a good cam when you hear it. It sounds happy
     
  16. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Yes, that 282 cam has a very nice exhaust note. The folks at Oreilly auto are great here also. They get a lot of custom vehicles in their parking lot all the time - which says a lot. I like to drive by and stop now and then - just to see some of the customer vehicles. Almost reminds me of the old drive-in days of the fifties at times. We have a Jacks with a large paved parking lot that packs full of classics every Saturday morning here - sometimes into the evening. The atmosphere there is great, and is mildly reminiscent of the old "Good Guys" meets of the '60s. Still, it's nothing like the old drive-in burger joints with their stalls on dirt parking lots. (chuckle) I can still remember some folks getting stuck in the pot holes when it rained - stopping all the continuous cruising and making those stopped behind them mad. One particular dirt lot drive through was called Monk's, another was the Bama. Everyone had a more or less reserved stall. Fun times then. By the late '60's, all the parking lots were paved - even in the movie drive-ins. Everything also started taming down a lot - maybe because so many of us were serving in Southeast Asia and we all had friends we grew up with that didn't make it back.
     
  17. waybad1

    waybad1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    Lots of meets and greets here in Socal. We certainly did a lot of street racing back in the 70's. We didn't have all the electronics kids do know
    All I wanted do was work on which ever car I was driving at the time. I do miss the old A&W drive in's.
    I started the truck this afternoon for the first time since yesterday. Dragged over then started up nice. I don't remember where I left
    off with the timing yesterday. Still ran great. It was a relief to know it was no longer rich. I need to put some miles on it and pulls the
    plugs for inspection. I am worried about #7 which was quite fouled and somewhat wet. They used to run a brownish color that when looking
    at a chart looked just about right. I went with Autolite plugs for the first time. I have never run anything but delcos in all my gm vehicles.
     
  18. waybad1

    waybad1 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2012
    Location:
    Ventura CA
    I got the sleeved MSD wires today. works of art
     
  19. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    "Dragged over". If you mean the starter was fighting the compression, you may need to retard the mechanical initial some. Using the fulltime vacuum port for the distributor vacuum can get the timing back up where the engine likes it.

    Be sure plug wires 5&7 don't run next to each other. You could be seeing some cross-firing.

    In the mid 60's there were two A&W restaurants near where I lived. You went inside and sat at the bar or at a table. The root beer was good, and they had decent food, but they only lasted a few years. Everybody smoked then, so there was always a smoky atmosphere. Funny, no one minded the smoke then - and no one was dropping dead. I think the problem ended up being more the chemicals they started adding to tobacco than the actual tobacco. I quit smoking cold turkey, many years back, at 55. I only did it because the tobacco had begun to physically bother me. Way back, I was one of the many clean shaven guys with neatly trimmed sideburns, wearing pilot's sunglasses, who had a bright white t-shirt on with a pack of cigarettes rolled in one sleeve - and one constantly on my lip at the races. Now, it's mostly guys with tattoos, wild beards, or long hair - with stale cigarettes/wild weed if they smoke. I really don't think they like or could stand the smell of all the nitro methane we once burned in our gas. Somehow, the nitro exhaust buzz, a fresh cigarette, and a cold beer always felt great back in the day.
     
  20. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Yes, those wires do look nice.
     

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