Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by crash520, Apr 6, 2018.
this is a BKR6E
A couple of cruise and WOT hits, what’s the thoughts
Looks some like the plug is slightly warm or may not have been fully torqued - it's really too new and clean to tell with mixed driving. Run them. If they glaze and begin to miss on deceleration, after highway or high speed cruising, go to a BKR7E. Don't use any anti-seize on the threads.
Ok cool, thanks, I’m running the car down the 1/4 a few times tonight for the first time since EFI installed, it is still backfiring a little on deceleration, I’ve taken the VE down to 10 along the bottom line in the table, that has helped a lot but I’m thinking a set of 7’s wouldn’t hurt
The F/A on decel and/or timing could be slightly off for the fuel you are using.
I’ve lowered the VE table on the bottom line to 10 and am out racing it at the moment and no backfiring
Email the tune to Richard with engine type, compression, and fuel type. He'll be able to see what is going on. You also need to get outside air ducted to the intake. 134 F. is only a few degrees from boiling water - far too hot, for any climate. With cooler intake air, you'll make more power.
If the engine temp is 176, and the intake air reads much cooler from other sources, I would think about replacing the air intake temp switch in the TBI. Also check the engine temp switch is reading correctly.
AA, that log I sent of the qrt mile runs in the other post with the 134 deg air intake temps, my car is a E body Cuda with the AAR hood so there is a large forward facing air intake right at the air cleaner, I haven’t sealed off the air cleaner to the hood as yet but I would have thought it would have been getting some cooler air through it, it’s alao a bone stock low compression 340 FYI , your comments raise a very valid question, I’ll look into this further, outside air temps on the night we’re prob around 80F
AA I had a look at the full data log again and yeah both temps are almost parallel on the log, during the run the air intake dropped only a degree or two, as it’s mounted in the TB (2.0 TBI) I’d think it would read closer to the engine temp as the TB is directly attached!
No, the air intake sensor is insulated and reads close to the actual air temp of air entering the 2.0 TBI, not the TBI temp. You need to get the cooler outside air coming to the TBI. Your current tune may even be causing higher than normal under hood temps. Seal off the air cleaner to the hood. Without that seal, the scoop is of no benefit.
I had a factory 1970 four speed Hemi 'Cuda (shaker scoop) back in the day. Flooring it in first could easily make it swap ends - wicked fast. A mildly modified 340 'Cuda back then was good for high 12s through the quarter - no slouch by any means.
Thanks Mate, interesting, I would have expected or thought those air intake temps could have dropped a bit more over the 14 second run, anyways, all great info to toss around in the brain box, thanks again, keep ‘em coming
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