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quit and now it won't start

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by 66Malibu540, May 6, 2018.

  1. 66Malibu540

    66Malibu540 New Member

    Joined:
    May 23, 2016
    Hey all! got a problem, I had to change an IAC the other day on my XFI multipoint 2.0 and while adjusting the air gap on the throttle plates the engine sputtered and died. Went back to start it nothing, it cranks but will not start. Check for spark at the plug and no spark. Went to the ECU and had a power light and when I crank it over I'm getting a CAM light no CRANK or POINTS light. Also, when I look at the dashboard via the laptop I'm not getting an RPM Signal as well... I've searched things over for 5 straight days and can't figure it out...

    When I first turn on the ECU I see the POWER led come on, and the CAM and CRANK leds illuminate for a very short time and go off leaving the POWER led on.

    besides the XFI I have the multi sync dist, E6 and E92 digital ignition box and coil, and EZ-TCU to operate my 4L80E transmission.

    As a side note, I still can't get my EZ-TCU to clear the error messages of Overtemp and Open Temp Sensor, haven't been able to since day one, I'm not sure what is going on with it as I've tried everything that I can think of and any suggestion that I could find on the internet, up to sucking trans fluid out of the fill tube to make sure the tranny didn't have too much fluid in it. About ready to resort to vodoo or witchcraft, praying hasn't helped...
     
  2. Fastmanefi

    Fastmanefi Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2011
    Location:
    Sonora, CA
    Not RPM on the dash means it's not seeing the crank signal from the distributor. End of question. Fix the crank signal source and you're done.
     
  3. 66Malibu540

    66Malibu540 New Member

    Joined:
    May 23, 2016
    I'm not really sure how to proceed... the 8 pin connector from the Fast Dual Sync Dist. is plugged into the Cam/Hall Effect connector as directed by the dual sync dist. installation direction and I have a switched 12v source connected to the red wire coming from the dist. as well. The CRANK connector from the main harness has the ground wire attached to the back of the head and the red and black wires looped back to each other. This is how it was connected when I received the engine, the engine ran and now quit I hadn't touch any of the wiring from the harness or the distributor.

    I took a test light and checked the 12v connection, it was good. I took the cap off and turned the key to the run position and I could see the red CAM led light was lit, but, I couldn't check the CRANK led light to see if it would illuminate or not because I couldn't crank the engine over and see the dist. at the same time.
     
  4. Fastmanefi

    Fastmanefi Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2011
    Location:
    Sonora, CA
    Call me today, or I can call you later. If the dual-sync distributor has power then both the crank and cam LEDs should blink as the engine is rotated as long as their outputs are not shorted. As a test I would unplug the dizzy from the Cam Hall-Effect plug and just apply the 12V and the ground. This would unconnect the Cam and Crank outputs. Then rotate the engine. If you still have no Crank LED then the distributor has failed.
     

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