So, my older brother came out from AZ this weekend to buy a truck I found him, and I asked him if he'd help me continue the install on my K5. Happy to say, that over two afternoons, we got all of the fuel system installed and all of the wiring harness installed and hooked up. Wow! Long time coming! I had swapped intake manifolds last month, and got the dual sync dist in also, new header gaskets, etc. So, after carefully checking all of our wiring connections and fuel lines, reading the FAST directions a couple times, we lit up the handheld and we started the Setup Wizard. All was going to plan until we tested the fuel pump system! Oops, two connections were not quite tight enough, got a little fuel leaking. Found the offending fittings, tightened them up, and no more leaks! Initially, the handheld showed "current" fuel pressure at 31...but my brother was watching the gauge on the regulator, and it was reading much lower, like 23? We checked for more leaks, but all was dry. So, I turned the regulator clockwise, and we got to 36 handheld, turned a bit more, right at 43 psi! Yay. However, the mechanical gauge reads 34?? We ran the test probably 10 times total (checking repeatedly for leaks, finding none)...was always exactly 43 on the handheld screen, 34 on the mechanical gauge? After the 10 seconds of fuel pump running, it would shut off, and fuel pressure would drop quickly, I assume that is normal (am running an in-tank pump, with RETURN system. Fuel pressure on the handheld read 3 psi several minutes after the pump turned off, never saw it at 0? (mechanical gauge was at 0 at that point). So, I read another thread with very similar issue - do I just go with the handheld pressure reading and ignore the mechanical gauge? The fuel tank was emptied and cleaned about 6 months ago, fuel is treated with ethanol treatment...shouldn't be anything in the filter (I guess I can check if you recommend)...motor has not been run yet at all with FAST kit. Also, if you read this AA - you had recommended the following for my initial setup: At 9.7:1, you're going to need to start with your total timing at 26-28 degrees, and watch the heat line on the side electrode. Start with all-in slope at 4000. Initial will be 20-22 degrees with your cam. That cam may not make enough vacuum for good operation of the EZ EFI 2.0. EZ systems need at least 10 inches of vacuum at idle in gear. I started with 22 initial, 28 all in mechanical, slope all in at 4000rpm. I did not get to the A/F ratios pages, I stopped at the fuel pump test since I wanted to ask about the large difference b/w mechanical gauge and handheld psi readings. I so wanted to try to fire it up, but my wife was wanting dinner and we didn't have time to roll the truck out of garage to try firing it. Next weekend I hope! Are these still the recommended settings to try at first? After reading all of the electrical horror stories, I hope we will avoid them. ECU is mounted way over on the driver's side inner fender, several feet from the distributor, even farther from the MSD coil and 6AL box. FAST + and - wires directly to battery via the side posts (no other connections there). Pink wire is connected to the Painless stock Fuel Pump circuit, we did not install the 82pf diode (but I do have it). Hoping for the best!