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Ready to Fire for first time with EZ 2.0, BUT...

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by kpanza, Aug 21, 2017.

  1. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    I have two of those and a number of older ones. The cheaper non-AGM 2012 also works just as well, and is a little better about not over-volting a weak AGM battery (works with all batteries - the 2012AGM is only for use with AGM).

    I also use two under-hood OBD-12 models with a small 10 amp Sunforce regulator and a single Renogy 100 watt 12v solar panel supplying power to them while parked. The solar panel and regulator will charge several vehicles at once. With only one vehicle on the panel, I've seen it boost a basically dead battery enough to start my GMC after 30 minutes in the sun. All the dead battery would do beforehand was make the starter click without the solar panel attached.

    The older discontinued 12151 models were great for restoring any totally dead batteries to operational condition. I used one of those to bring back a dead/replaced battery, that had sat in a corner forgotten for six years. The battery came back, and I was able to use it for a year again in the same diesel Kubota Grand L 3100 tractor it had been removed from. I have several of the 12151 models still mounted to batteries in vehicles.

    I also have an OBD-24 on a two battery 24 volt 800 watt solar panel system supplying 120v AC. That system supplies a small utility building, and supplies some emergency power to the garage on my home during utility power outages - before my 13 Kw PTO generator is needed for home appliances and the water supply. (Only way to stay comfortable when tornado damage has the power out for two weeks.)

    I've only had one go bad in well over ten years. Somehow water got into one 12151 installed on a tractor.
    My battery replacements have dropped considerably over the last 20 years - since I started using the BatteryMINDERS. On average, I stopped spending about $300 or so each year for batteries in my vehicle collection. I've even had a few lead acid batteries last more than 14 years before they began weakening.

    Mount one inside the cab somewhere, hidden, and you can just plug in the power and forget about it.

    If you go to an Odyssey battery in the future, be sure to use no smaller than the PC 1200. One smaller will not supply enough repeated power for the starter, and will have a shorter lifespan. I like the military spec MJT models - they're just about bullet proof.
     
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
  2. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Awesome, I'll look into all of that! I like the solar idea out here in sunny So Cal!

    So, here is the pic I took of the distributor under the rotor...anything to be concerned about? I did use a soft wire brush and took off a little rust on those posts, but didn't want to get too aggressive...seems like quite a bit of rust for almost new?
     

    Attached Files:

  3. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    What distributor is this? The welding caused the rusting. That looks nasty - and the flux needs cleaning off, and out of those holes and crevices. If any of it dislodges and gets between the reluctor points and the module, you'll have a problem. This needs cleaning good and blown out with air pressure.

    I noticed your oil pressure gauge also. You might want to have it sit at a better angle using this - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cin-sn57g
    The Summit part is a sturdy piece I use, and it looks better with the pressure gauge standing upright at a factory angle. In some engine bays, it's really needed for better clearance and accessibility.
     
  4. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    That is the FAST Dual Sync that came with my Kit! I have not touched it...that is exactly how it came from FAST. Doesn't look like a $300+ distributor to me! Clean it with a wire wheel on a drill? Or?? I guess I need to pull the distributor out AGAIN?

    Before the FAST kit, I had an oil pressure safety switch that would cut off the fuel pump if oil pressure was lost. So, the oil pressure sender needs to be at a 45 degree angle? Did not know that...I just capped off the side of the T where the oil pressure switch had been.
     
  5. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Ouch, I would have thought FAST would put out a more professionally built distributor - and using specifically designed parts. That kind of sloppy factory work is just not acceptable in my eyes. I did more professional looking work almost 40 years back at the track, during races, when I needed a quick replacement OEM distributor using a locked out advance. I'll just continue using my MSD PRO Billet distributors.

    Yes, I would pull the distributor to clean up all that weld splatter and other debris. That mess will eventually put you on the side of the road, or stuck in the wild, if not cleaned out. You may even need a small punch to get some of that mess cleaned off. Be careful.

    There's nothing wrong with your oil pressure setup. It just might look better and be easier to get at with more clearance using the 45 degree setup. You also need plenty of clearance away from the firewall - especially if a mount breaks. That can be a tight area to get into. Most of these small blocks (not all) have a side port above the oil filter area to use for oil pressure safety switches.
     
  6. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Yeah, I'm kind of sad I sold the MSD Pro Billet when I started this project...it was beautiful piece. This FAST one, not so much. I may send the pictures to FAST and see if this is normal? When I took that rotor off, I was like "What the hell, this looks bad!" Really poor welding and splatter...you can't tell in the picture really, but the wires had slight "shave" to the insulation from whoever installed them...not near enough to expose any copper, but I noticed that the first time I took it out of box...I only bought this dual sync since the FAST rep said it would play nice with the system, and that's what I wanted, simplicity. Thinking maybe I should have kept the Pro Billet and done the mods...

    Ok, I will try to get it cleaned up when I get a chance.
     
  7. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Those four posts, what are they? Are they going to work with the rust? Sorry, I don't know much about the internals...what needs to be cleaned the most? After I'm done, anything I can do to delay the onset of more rust??
     
  8. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Those four posts were for springs and advance weights - before they welded this into a locked advance. They will never be used for anything now. You just need to get those beads of debris off and any black slag on the welds. Just chip it off. Be sure to blow all of it out with air pressure. The light rust you see really hurts nothing - just wipe that off, if you want, and clean up using WD-40.
     
  9. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Ah yeah, I should've remembered the advance weights and springs were there! Ok, I will clean it up and put it back in. My battery terminals were finally shipped today, so I should be able to get that new 1/0 ground cable made and on the block this weekend. I'm also gonna charge up the battery and see if it works better. Thanks Alex.
     
  10. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    You're welcome Keith. I hope your K5 turns out to be very reliable in all the uses you find for it.
     
  11. kpanza

    kpanza Member

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2015
    Location:
    Huntington Beach, CA
    I do too!! I need utter reliability when I'm out in the boonies! I always hated the total lack of power my old '87 K5 had with the stock TBI motor, but it was totally reliable powertrain-wise. I'm sure this one will get there, just have to work the bugs out...and I've learned so much more about actual inner workings of the engine, so that is good!
     

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