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Surging idle hot start EZ-EFI 1.0

Discussion in 'FAST Support Forum' started by gremlinmt, Oct 21, 2018.

  1. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    You may want to experiment with Cranking Fuel in the enrichment settings before lowering the A/F. Cranking Fuel affects warm starts. Cold Start only affects cold starting.
     
  2. gremlinmt

    gremlinmt Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2013
    Today was a day off because I worked last Sunday. Started the day by taking the truck to drop the kids off at school. Truck ran well. 25F outside. I must have been out late because the engine was still at 36F when I crawled into it. Warm starts are still a problem. Whenever IAT is more than about 60F more than actual temp due to heat soak it wants surge and usually die. Because I had time today, I did a lot of short drives where the engine was fully warm so I could replicate the issue. I keep pushing the cranking fuel up when the start temp is above 125F and the cold start enrichment up when it's below 125F. If seems to be getting better. I'm +2 on cold start and +4 on Cranking right now. It's still surging but not dying as often.

    Also did a freeway blast this morning. 2500rpm at 65mph. That was at 14" of vac. Pulled plugs 1 and 3 when I got home. Plugs were in very good condition with no fouling. Looking at the log book, they have about 400 miles on them. Ceramics were cleaned with a poorly defined line at the bend on the ground strap. Threads were discolored to the second thread so I assume heat range is good. No signs of detonation.

    Driving about feels pretty good. I'm still getting used to the return springs. Pedal feels heavy but I suppose that's not a bad thing when looking for fuel economy. :) Throttle is responsive and doesn't bog down.

    This spring I installed a catch canister between my PCV valve and throttle body. It always amazes me just how nasty the stuff coming out of the crank case is. Mostly water but with a nasty scum of oil and what feels like parafin. Glad to capture it and throw it away instead of sticking it into my engine. I've included a picture.
    20190111_113126.jpg
     
  3. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    Lemonade - not good for an engine. Cold engine, short trips, cause a lot of water condensation to mix in with oil to create a frothy mix. I have seen worse.
     
  4. gremlinmt

    gremlinmt Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2013
    I'm just happy I collect it instead of shoving it down the intake. That's about 400 miles of collection. My commute is short enough that it's just reaching full operating temp as I'm pulling into the parking garage on a 20F morning with no warm up. I like to plug it in and that helps a lot with reaching operating temperature sooner.
     
  5. gremlinmt

    gremlinmt Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2013
    Well, boring drive today. Engine started up easy at 42F, warmed up quickly, drove well, idled beautifully at 650rpm. New alternator shows at least 13.2v on EZ-EFI display and 14.0v on my battery monitor. Restart at 109F engine temp and 95F intake temp had no drama, just settled down and idled nicely.

    I've gone through every wire and connector between the battery and the EZ system, it tends to read 0.7v low which is better than the 1.0v low before going through everything. It's got a brand new starter relay and all old wires and connectors have been replaced by weatherpack connectors. I'm leaning towards ignoring it. I may stab a multimeter lead into the back side of the ecu connector just to verify but i think the reading is just plain wrong.

    I did some full throttle pulls at highway speed. Full pedal travel registers 95% on the throttle readout so I'll calibrate that in the morning before first start.
     
  6. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    That all sounds great. As far as the volts shown on the handheld now, I wouldn't worry much. I've seen where battery capacity was just down a small fraction, and volts will drop on the handheld at idle. My readout with the 2.0 handheld is normally 14.3 volts at idle (straight off the ignition switch). But, if my GMC has been sitting a week without my charger/desulfator connected, it reads 13.9 volts on the handheld. That's with a PowerMaster 150 Amp 12Si alternator with a matched pulley and a new Duracell AGM battery.

    If the volts are too low with all the lights and accessories on, you may need to raise the idle as far as 750 - or the current pulley is just off some. As long as you battery is staying above 12.5 volts, you should be fine. I can tell you are really liking the lower idle now. It sounds like you have everything right - other than some very small adjustments along as you get the tuning even closer for best mileage.

    The only way around some low voltage issues on the handheld is to install a relay using heavier gauge wiring to the ECU pink ignition wire. It isn't always worth the trouble. I'll bet your truck sounds good now, and I know the engine is stronger. Best of continued success!
     
  7. gremlinmt

    gremlinmt Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2013
    Even with heater, lights, radio, ham radio, cell charger. Actual battery voltage runs 13.8, handheld reads 13.2. I think you are right, ignore handheld reading. New alternator is running 2.88 pulley ratio. Not the ideal 3.1 but as close as I'm going to get with this engine. I'm currently running 13.5 AFR at idle. Any leaner tends to surge when hot idling. Not sure if there is a good reason to go leaner. Cold starts are so much better with the current distributor curve that I'm willing to leave it alone.
     
  8. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    13.5 idle A/F is not bad. You may find you can raise it some later as things settle in with new adjustments. Overall driveability counts for a lot. I drove my truck for a year after getting everything working great. It was after that I decided I would take my fuel mileage above 12.5 mpg. It took some timing changes before it could be done, but it still ran great before getting it to run leaner. Try to get your cruise A/F leaner, and find that point. Cruise A/F won't affect other settings like idle A/F does. Working with cruise fuel, you might only use Accel fuel and WOT as you lean.
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2019 at 12:41 AM
  9. gremlinmt

    gremlinmt Member

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2013
    Another boring day. Weather is supposed to take a turn for the worse this week so I bundled up and took the motorcycle. I like to be able to say I rode the motorcycle every month, in Montana. :D Drove the truck to Scouts. With the advance set correctly it takes a lot longer to warm up when driving. Only reach 171F pulling into the lot at the church, maybe a 2 mile drive. Truck started beautifully after the meeting. No hickups, easy idle, and warm enough so it didn't need any correction factor.

    What do you do when your truck just runs right? :)
     
    A A likes this.
  10. A A

    A A Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2014
    if I could even still drink beer, I'd say; "time for a good cold Coors Light". Nowadays, it's just a big grin from ear to ear.:D

    With the added initial advance, the engine will run cooler. You just improved the life of your engine!
     

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